Just one sip of this extraordinary wine and I realize it was all worth waiting for.
Like a painfully sluggish sommelier, the river cruise industry has been slow to bring the exquisite glories of Bordeaux to those of us who’ve thirsted for them.
The award-winning Avalon Waterways has changed that with its 8-day Bonjour Bordeaux: Chateaux, Wineries & Charming Villages, a magical sailing that plies the scenic Garonne and Dordogne rivers for a celebration of history, culture, cuisine and, of course, wine.
The itinerary, a new one for Avalon Waterways, which boasts 79 itineraries across 13 rivers in 23 countries, was established as a direct result of past passenger requests via the line’s “Wish List” survey. And not only are guests delighted with Bonjour Bordeaux but Bordeaux, which was looking to increase river cruising in the region, is as well.
Like all Avalon Waterways sailings, Bonjour Bordeaux brings with it an abundance of valuable “extras” like complimentary wines (superb Bordeaux wines, of course) with lunch and dinner as well as complimentary beers, wines and innovative cocktails at happy hour, a staggering assortment of included shore experiences and free Starlink Wi-Fi.
The Ship: Artistry II
Artistry II is not a newbuild, but you’d never know it. Originally launched in 2013, this 4-deck, 128-guest river ship was refurbished in 2024 to reflect the contemporary Avalon Waterways style—light and bright but with a decidedly homey feel created through a neutral color scheme accented with splashes of color and inviting touches like throw pillows and glowing table lamps. Even a glimpse at the sleek exterior of Artistry II reveals the ship’s emphasis on floor-to-ceiling windows, windows that flood the ship with light and provide ever-changing views of the architecture, charming villages and lush vineyards along its route.
This is an intimate river cruise experience aboard a ship that is simple to navigate. A small fitness center is located on deck one, while the main dining room is located on the deck above. Guests head to deck three for cocktails, socializing and dancing at the Panorama Lounge forward or follow the deck aft to the Club Lounge for 24-hour self-serve coffees, teas, hot chocolate and snacks as well as the river ship’s supply of books, cards and games. When the sun is shining, the Sky Deck with its ample supply of lounge chairs and its covered seating area is the perfect place to sit back and watch the spectacular scenery. (Those with mobility issues should note that while Artistry II does have an elevator, the Sky Deck may not be accessed by it.)
How Suite It Is!
The majority of Artistry II’s accommodations are Panorama Suites, and there are two full decks of them. At 200 square feet, the Panorama Suite is 30% larger than suites found on other river ships and that’s not where the difference ends. The larger suite is the result of Avalon Waterways’ ingenious “open air balcony” concept, a floor-to-ceiling window that slides open a full seven feet to create the feel of a balcony without reducing the room’s size. This larger living space allows Artistry II to position each suite’s heavenly Comfort Collection bed to face not the room’s wall, but the ever-changing view outside—Avalon’s river ships are the only ones capable of doing this! And, speaking of that Comfort Collection bed, its firmness may be customized– very soft, soft, firm or very firm—through the placement of a mattress pad that covers its entire surface, eliminating that pesky groove that is often created when two single beds are converted to a double. A flatscreen satellite TV with English language channels and over 50 free movie options is tucked in the corner of each suite, your sitting-area table may be adjusted higher or lower to the perfect comfort level and in the bath you’ll find luxury L’Occitane toiletries as well as bath linen supplied in two different colors, making it easy to distinguish your towels from those of your travel partner.
A Taste of Bordeaux
An important part of the Avalon Waterways experience is guest choice in…well…everything! The concept begins with dining. Unlike many river ships which designate a firm dinner time, aboard Artistry II, you may arrive at the lavish Panorama Dining room at any time between 7:00 p.m. and 9:00 p.m. Breakfast and lunch (buffet style, supplemented by a separate menu) offer a similar two-hour window so you can let hunger, not the clock, be your guide.
Not in the mood for a formal four-course dinner? Opt for lighter fare at the Panorama Bistro tucked at the rear of the Panorama Lounge or enjoy a light dinner al fresco at the Sky Bistro.
It is not surprising that dining aboard Artistry II is generally superb—we are in France! Dinners include a choice of appetizers, soups, salads, entrees, desserts and cheese and, at all meals, healthy cuisine options including vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and dairy-free are available. (I must say, however, that vegans and vegetarians might want to re-think those dietary restrictions–the filet mignon served aboard Artistry II was the best I have ever had!)
Ashore? Active and More!
It is a sad reality that even some devoted fans of cruising believe that rivers are a stodgy mode of travel characterized by frail seniors boarding crowded motor coaches for a quick stop at touristy sites along the route. Avalon Waterways shatters that image!
In 2017, Avalon Waterways added a selection of decidedly active shore experiences to its riverboat sailings and Bonjour Bordeaux is no exception. In Fort Medoc, I participate in a four-mile walk (at a good clip!) through Chateau Margaux, passing vineyards, stunning chateaux and fields of grazing wildlife before ending the experience with a superb wine tasting and delectable charcuterie at Chateau Angludet. The following day, some of us hop on an e-bike (Artistry II maintains a fleet of them in all sizes for the varying heights of its guests) for a vigorous ride through the rolling landscapes.
It is no wonder Avalon Waterways attracts guests who, at 60 years old, are an average 10 years younger than those found on other river ship lines!
But even the less active guest can look to Artistry II for shore experiences that shatter the norm. Along with the “Active” experiences that are among the 20 complimentary shore options, guests may choose from “Classic” ones that visit an area’s most popular sites (some including a lavish lunch, oyster or wine tasting) or “Discovery” ones that unearth some lesser-known gems along the route.
In Bayle, our “Discovery” is hosted by Leslie Kellen, an eccentric South African who admits to having moved to Bordeaux specifically for the wine. Wine expert and author Kellen and his internationally renowned artist and wine maker partner Clarissa, provide us with a taste (literally and figuratively) of their vast enterprises: a winery, an impressive art gallery, a vintage car collection, Le Petite Cave wine bar, wine cellars and the two luxury apartments that may be booked by visitors to this lovely town. Our group is not aggressively encouraged to make purchases even at the inviting wine shop—in fact, as a memento of our extraordinary experience, Kellen takes a seat and personally signs a copy of his book, My Little World, for each of us!
Mr. Kellen–his knowledge, humor and communication skills–is typical of the Avalon Waterways shoreside host. As a company geared exclusively to English-speaking guests, I find many of our guides to be “locals” who originally hailed from an English-speaking country but who have resided in Bordeaux for decades. It is truly the best of both worlds!
With Artistry II, Avalon Waterways has delivered the extraordinary Bordeaux we’ve all been waiting for. For lovers of wine, food, culture and history, it’s time to smell, swirl, sip…and say Bonjour Bordeaux!
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A free two-night Paris extension is available on select Bonjour, Bordeaux sailings.
The 8-day itinerary is also available in two- and three-week options: the 15-day French Masterpiece with Paris, Normandy & Bordeaux; the 22-day France Uncorked sailing along the Rhone, the Seine & Bordeaux or another 22-day itinerary, France Uncorked, which sails the Rhine, Seine, Garonne and Dordogne rivers.
See cruises here: Avalon Artistry II
‘About’ and more Avalon Waterways cruises
Cover photo, the ship, Artistry II, by Avalon Waterways, credit Avalon Waterways
- AVALON-Artistry II-Panorama Suite: A room with a view! credit Avalon
- AVALON-Deluxe Stateroom Bathroom: Two colors of bath linen prevent towel mix-ups! credit Avalon
- AVALON-Drinks: Enjoy inventive cocktails as well as extraordinary wine aboard Artistry II credit Avalon
Photos and descriptions credit writer Judi Cuervo:
- Panorama Lounge: The Panorama Lounge, the social heart of Artistry II
- Sky Deck: Guests head to the Sky Deck for sun, relaxation and spectacular views.
- Vineyards: A stroll through the world-renowned vineyards of Bordeaux.
- Wine Tastings: Swirl, sip and taste extraordinary wines!
- ebikes: Artistry II’s fleet of ebikes allow active shore experiences!
- filet mignon: Extraordinary dining…at whatever time you wish!
- Killen-Book Signing: Author, wine expert and Artistry II tour host Leslie Killen gifts each of us with an autographed copy of his book!
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