The Imam Fainted!

Our chef Numan taught us how to make a very traditional dish that I can’t wait to try out when I get home, if only for the name.  It’s called The Imam Fainted – presumably from the deliciousness of the dish, – eggplant stuffed with either vegetables or minced beef.In this case it was beef, with lots of garlic and onions and tomatoes. While the eggplant roasted in the galley, we took the dinghy over to the …

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The Gulet Cruise: Kaunos

After breakfast this morning, we disembarked and boarded a minibus which will take us to the ancient site of Kaunos.  The boat will sail along the coast and pick us up later this afternoon. The scenery is dramatic, with steep hills, pine trees, lakes, pomegranate trees and orange groves.  It was about an hour’s drive to Kaunos and this was a perfect day for exploring this well preserved site.  The sun was warm and bright, but there …

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Cooking Lesson at Sea

 The weather is still coolish, so this morning we met in the main cabin for a cooking lesson from Serdar.  He demonstrated a Pilaf, that originated in Mardin,  -“a very old and lovely almost Italianate town in Southeastern Turkey, near Syria, a multi-cultural place with narrow streets and archways, where they make delicate silverware and jewelry.” The dish was a composed pilaf, with each layer arranged in exact order – sauteed beef, onions, chick peas, chopped tomatoes, …

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The Gulet Cruise: Stormy Weather

Serdar had warned us that it would get rough and he was right.  We awoke to overcast skies and high winds, and the captain decreed that we would stay in the protected harbour at Knidos until the seas were calmer. No problem.  We all found corners out of the wind to read or catch up on emails. We had lunch inside the main cabin – a delicious lamb moussaka – and then, around 4 pm, the skies …

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Last day in Bodrum, first night on our Peter Sommer Travels gulet cruise

We aren’t scheduled to meet the boat until four, so there’s almost a full day to explore more of the history of Bodrum. A brisk uphill walk brings me to the ancient Amphitheatre above the city. The theatre itself is architecturally beautiful, but it also provides gorgeous views of the city, its castle and the Harbor.  Another short walk, this time downhill, brings me to the ancient Myndos Gates that were damaged during a siege by Alexander …

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Bodrum and the Su Hotel

Today we moved from the luxury of the Kempinski to the rustic charm of the Su Hotel, the accommodation recommended by Peter Sommers Travels.  The Kempinski has been a delight from start to finish- they transferred us to our new hotel in a lovely Porsche Cayenne!   This is a hotel I would certainly return to. The Su is a very different place, but charming in its own way. The car dropped us at the entrance to a …

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Bodrum

One of the real pluses of traveling in Turkey is the well-developed system of public buses that are affordable and efficient.  We caught a minibus into Bodrum from the front of our hotel and were deposited near the center of town about twenty minutes later.  It cost about five Turkish lira, or $2.50 each. This is a busy town, an attractive destination for people from Istanbul looking for a seaside getaway and for Europeans, and to a …

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Recovery Day

Luck and some planning means we have a whole day to rest and recover from a ten hour flight and seven hour time change. Today will be devoted to leisure. The Kempinski Barbaros Bay (www.kempinski.com/en/bodrum/hotel) is the ideal spot for that.  This five star property lies in a quiet bay outside of Bodrum.  The view from our room at five thirty am – the joys of jet lag! – is of a gorgeous pink and blue sunrise …

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Gastronomic Gulet Cruise of the Carian Coast, Turkey

The history of a people is often closely tied to its cuisine, so the combination of gastronomy and archeology on this cruise itinerary had strong appeal.  Run by Peter Sommer Travels, this expedition has been earning rave reviews.  It is a unique experience and adds a few new layers to cruising.  Sailing on an ancient form of boat, the Turkish gulet (rhymes with ‘you bet’), re-invented for modern cruising, we will be experiencing the authentic flavours and …

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