Among the many shore activities for cruise passengers, Reykjavik offers opportunities to ride sturdy and beautiful Icelandic Horses.

On the evening that I arrived in Reykjavik, the weather had turned. What had been a beautiful summer for days running had suddenly been interrupted by clouds and rain. Nonetheless, the weather would not stop us from running through Reykjavik to see what the city had to offer cruise passengers on calls to Iceland’s capital city.

I arrived in Reykjavik with a film crew from Copenhagen to photograph and film the stunning landscape in and around this northern city. Fortunately, it was not raining buckets when we arrived, and there was always the hope that tomorrow would clear.

In fact, the weather did clear, and while the sky above us was still gray, there were patches of sunshine. We set out to explore. Starting at 8 in the morning, we would spend the next eight hours on what is probably the most popular of Iceland’s shore excursions: The Golden Circle Tour.

Cruise lines may call the tour something different, but no matter what it’s called, the tour makes a wide sweep to visit three significant attractions near Reykjavik.

• Geysir, which gave the world the word “geyser”;
• Gullfoss, a thundering double-decker waterfall; and
• Thingvellir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, the only place in the world where you can see this phenomenon above water.

Our host for the day was Agust Agustsson, who represents the Port of Reykjavik. The evening before, Agust had given us a tour of the city. He told us that increasingly, cruise ships were overnighting in Iceland’s capital. And why not? After a day of touring, it’s easy to venture into Reykjavik from the Skarfabakki cruise docks, less than two miles from the city center.

Those who do venture out will find that Reykjavik has a vibrant nightlife, excellent restaurants and 24-hour sunlight in the middle of the summer. Plus, with Iceland’s recent financial crisis, the capital city is more affordable for tourists than it once was.

When in Reykjavik, find your way to the old harbor area (some of the smaller cruise ships dock there) to find Saegreifinn, a fish restaurant. The restaurant is reminiscent of Seattle’s Pike Place Market. No need to get all dressed up. This is casual dining at its best.

Be sure to try a Brennivin, an Icelandic schnapps, the country’s signature alcoholic beverage. If you’re there during the day, you may even want to do a whale-watching excursion. Oh, and to show you know your stuff, it may help if you know that Reykjavik translates to “Smoky Bay.” The smoke doesn’t come from cigarettes or factories, but from the geothermal activity in the region.

On the morning of our tour, Agust loaded us into a van for the full-day journey. Our first stop was Geysir, an area of hot springs and mud pools. The original Geysir, which gave its name to the world’s vocabulary, rarely spouts nowadays.

Strokkur spouting its steamy breath.

Just a few feet away, however, Strokkur blasts boiling water ever few minutes or so to the delight of tourists with cameras poised.

Cruise ship passengers typically have a long look at Strokkur and then dine across the road at Hotel Geysir, where some tables face the windows toward the geyser. Dine and enjoy nature’s performance. The restaurant works with extreme efficiency, serving cruise ship passengers so that they are in and out in 50 minutes and onto the next stop on the Golden Circle Tour.

On shore excursions from Reykjavik, visit Gullfoss, the golden waterfall.

Our next stop was Gullfoss, translating into “golden waterfall.” A little more than 100 years ago, the waterfall was in danger of being dammed to tap its potential for hydroelectric power. One lady fought for the preservation of the waterfall, however, and thankfully won the battle so that tourists today can appreciate this force of nature.

Thingvellir, where two continents meet.

Next stop, Thingvellir, which is significant for two reasons: 1) It was here that Iceland got its first democratically elected parliament; and 2) the region is situated on a rift where the tectonic plates for Europe and America meet. It’s the only place in the world where you can see the meeting of two continents above water. Thingvellir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and geological significance.

On the way back to Reykjavik, Agust told us that Reykjavik has been welcoming cruise passengers for more than 100 years. Many of those cruisers came to see the natural attractions that we saw today.

One of the last passengers to visit Reykjavik before the second World War would become a significant figure of the war. She was Eva Brown, who filmed some of her trip with a camera that Hitler gave to her on a voyage that stopped in Iceland in 1939. About a month after the cruise ended, war broke out.

No time for the Reykjavik nightlife. Our ship was departing for Greenland. But we knew we would be leaving with much still to be seen. No doubt we would return.

Nonetheless, we had made the most of our full day in Reykjavik. If your ship happens to be calling on the Icelandic capital, I recommend the Golden Circle Tour to experience some of the best natural attractions in and around “Smoky Bay.”

Surrounded by the blue ocean and the majestic Esja mountain (2,999 feet/914 meters high), Reykjavik is a destination that will leave no visitor unimpressed. The Icelandic nature is but one of the factors that attract visitors from near and afar. Add to that the geothermal baths, a plethora of museums, and a vibrant nightlife: it is easy to understand Reykjavik’s popularity among travelers. Read more of the Avid Cruiser’s Port Profile of Reykjavik.

Grass-Roofed Houses In The Faroe Islands

Decades ago, I was leafing through the pages of National Geographic magazine when I came upon a photograph of a grass-roofed house in the Faroe Islands. The image of that fairy-tale-like home engaged my imagination, and thus began my desire to visit the exotic cluster of islands that had etched an indelible image in my mind.

The journey from then until now spanned more than 30 years, and it was only last week that I set foot on the rugged group of islands jutting out of the North Atlantic. Descending the steps from the Atlantic Airways jet that had brought me to the Faroe Islands from Copenhagen, I put my foot on the tarmac and gazed in front of me: rugged, green and impressive.

I wasn’t the first traveler to be enthralled by the beauty before me. In 2007, National Geographic Traveler named the Faroe Islands the world’s most appealing island destination. The Faroes outranked the Azores, Lofoten, Bermuda, Hawaii and other islands. The judging panel remarked that the Faroes were “lovely, unspoiled islands, a delight to the traveler.”

Indeed. Not five minutes from the airport and already we were commanding the driver to pull over so that we could snap photographs and film the surrounding scenery. This continued for three days as I traveled with a film crew from Copenhagen on assignment here to capture the essence of the Faroes. Our mission was to discover the soul of this mystical place and to reveal it in video to give cruise passengers a tantalizing taste of what they can expect when cruising to the Faroes.

A few minutes further and a group of grass-roofed houses emerged. The village of Bøur was picture-postcard perfect, perched on a small cliff by the sea, the white steeple of a church piercing the sea of grass roofs. Creating a near-deafening sound, a stream of whitewater roared past the church.

Picture-Postcard Perfect: The Village of Bøur.

What I discovered during three days in the Faroes was a stunning landscape and a vibrant culture. The near vertical slopes of the glaciated landscape plunged into the sea. Dotting the grass-covered hillsides were sheep, brown, black, grey and white. The sea, which is is nearly always within view, teems with marine life, and the economy of the Faroes relies on the bountiful harvests from the sea. Seafood export accounts for the more than 90 percent of the local export economy.

On one day of our visit, we witnessed a tradition more than four centuries old, the so-called drive hunts for pilot whales. The killing of these whales has been part of a non-commercial ritual dating from 1584.

Hunters surround the pilot whales with a wide semicircle of boats, then drive the whales to shallow water in the bay, where the whales become beached and are slaughtered. The ritual is an important part of Faroese culture and history. The Pilot Whale was considered a gift from god. Whale meat meant food for a long time. I was told, there is no waste, and as has been the custom for centuries, the whale meat is distributed to villagers, not sold commercially.

Upon hearing of the practice, I thought it to be barbaric. But once I witnessed this age-old tradition and was informed about its social significance, I realized it was no more barbaric than the slaughter of cows, pigs or chickens for sustenance worldwide.

Picturesque Gjogv.

The Faroe Islanders are extremely independent. They descended from the Vikings who came here from Scandinavia more than 11 centuries ago. Irish monks lived in the Faroes even before the Vikings but fled the islands when the Viking longships arrived. In 1035, the Faroe Islands were annexed by the Kingdom of Norway, which ended up under Danish rule in 1380.

Though officially an autonomous constituent country within the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroese were granted control of most of the matters that affect their islands in 1948. However, the Danish Queen’s kingdom includes the Faroe Islands (as well as Greenland), and Denmark is responsible for the military defense and the foreign affairs of the Faroes.

The Faroese have their own language, with grammar as well as vocabulary similar to Icelandic and to the extinct language Old Norse. Spoken Faroese, however, is closer to Norwegian dialects. While Faroese is the main language in the islands, both Faroese and Danish are the official languages.

The Faroe Islanders even have their own currency, the Faroese krona. The islands are not a member of the European Union.

A modern infrastructure of paved roads and tunnels connects more than 80 percent of the 50,000 people who live in the Faroes. Nearly 20,000 people live in Torshavn, the world’s smallest national capital. There are 18 islands in total, and all but one is inhabited.

The Faroe Islands are a place of unforgettable beauty. A simple photograph in a magazine had inspired me to visit, yet I waited much too long for my first journey to these enchanting islands. You need not wait for decades to pass before your visit. Chart your course to the Faroes on a cruise of the North Atlantic. You’ll be glad you did.

Saluhall is one of the Stockholm’s oldest markets and one of the world’s top ten markets, according to a 2007 ranking by Bon Appetit magazine. The building opened in 1888 and soon became a hit for locals who enjoyed good food and fine ingredients for preparing food back home. Chefs and restaurateurs, even purveyors to the Royal household, came here to buy goods for dishes they were preparing.

The market reminds me a little of Seattle’s Pike Place Market, though Saluhall is not outdoors and is not as sprawling at the Seattle market. Still, it’s worth at least a couple hours’ visit to this lively market whether to browse or to sit down and dine at one of the many casual cafes.

The market is situated in trendy Ostermalm, at attractive neighborhood that is easily accessible by metro (tunnelbana) or by foot, only a 5-minute walk along Strandvagen, if you wish, from Scandic Anglais, Hotel Stureplan, Grand Hotel or Radisson SAS Strand.

Arrive hungry and try something typically Swedish, such as Swedish meatballs or a fresh fish dish.

Below are short descriptions of the restaurants. For more information, visit Saluhall’s official web page.

• Gerdas Fisk & Skaldjursrestaurang. A classic meeting place for generation after generation of fish and seafood lovers. Here you’ll find the catch of the day on offer, as well as a level of service and experience that will have you coming back for more.
• Lisa Elmqvist Fisk, Skaldjur, Delikatesser o. Restaurang. The choicest delicacies of the sea, delivered fresh to our fish counter each day. Everything from simple fare to lobster, accompanied by fine wines and a unique atmosphere.
• Nybroe Smørrebrød. Genuine open sandwiches with a wide variety of fillings and tastes, made the Danish way. Served on the premises or for takeaway. We also cater for both small and large functions.
• Robert’s Coffee. Special coffees and teas, with a wide range of flavors.
• Sushibaren Östermalm. Freshly prepared sushi.
• Tysta Mari. Varied bistro menu, delicious simple fare, fresh seafood, open sandwiches or a glass of wine, served in the congenial surroundings of the food hall, or available to take away.

Yep, That’s Me With The ‘Real’ Housewives On Board Costa Deliziosa

On last night’s episode of Bravo’s popular “The Real Housewives of New Jersey” series, the stars of the show said “ciao” to the Garden State and “buongiorno” to Italy aboard Costa’s newest ship, the Costa Deliziosa. Last February, the famous Italian American housewives were among the first guests to sail on the Italian ship as she set sail on her maiden voyage, and the Avid Cruiser was there, apparently, according to my daughter, appearing briefly in last night’s show. Housewives Teresa Giudice, Jacqueline Laurita and Caroline Manzo took a well-deserved getaway from the drama of the series’ second season by cruising with Costa from Venice to Naples. The ladies boarded the ship just two days after it was delivered. Giudice was joined by her husband, daughters, parents and in-laws. Laurita and her husband, who is also Manzo’s brother, brought their two children and Jacqueline’s parents. Manzo was joined by her husband and parents. “We were thrilled to welcome the housewives of New Jersey and their families as some of the first guests to sail aboard the Costa Deliziosa,” said Maurice Zarmati, president and ceo of Costa North America. “They really made the most of the vacation experience by taking in the sights of Venice while ashore and relaxing onboard with spa treatments, Blackjack games in the casino and dancing in the disco. You could tell they were all very close and family oriented.”

Best ‘Green’ Hotel, environmentally friendly.

The Facts —Both stylish and efficiently managed, the Scandic Anglais is a modern, centrally located hotel that stakes a claim as being environmentally friendly while providing comfortable and stylish accommodations.

True to its “green” philosophy, the hotel provides an attractive bottle in rooms that guests may fill with Stockholm drinking water, which, the hotel says, ranks among the “world’s best water.”

Bicycles also are available free of charge, although the Scandic, situated in trendy Stureplan, is within walking distance of most of the city’s attractions.

The ground floor houses a long bar and lounge, popular with the after-work crowd, and the breakfast area and reception. In the adjacent shop, guests can buy salads and sandwiches for quick meals on the go or to stock their mini-bars back in their rooms.

Cozy Digs —The 230 rooms at Scandic Anglais fall under three categories: Cabin, a cozy 129 square feet, designed primarily for those who simply need a place to sleep while on business in Stockholm; Superior, 301 square feet and with views over the park Humlegarden from your private balcony; and spacious suites.

Final Word — The Scandic Anglais is located in the heart of Stockholm’s shopping and nightclub district. Also, the hotel bar is a popular local hangout for young professionals, especially on weekends. The hotel features a new, quieter bar on the second floor.

Scandic Anglais also offers a spa with hot tubs, Swedish sauna and gym, and the entire property is set up for wireless internet.

HOTEL AMENITIES:

• Dry cleaning and express laundry service
• Irons, ironing board available upon request; safe in room
• Free wireless internet is provided, but you need a code, which conveniently can be retrieved via reception or your in-room TV.
  
• Bikes are available free of charge.
  
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and treatments
• Kids Stay Free

SAMPLE RATE:
Sample rate for September 24 – September 26, 2010, (two nights, two people) US$193 per night for Double Room with breakfast included.

CATEGORY:

**** 4 Stars

The Scandic chain used to transport 4 million bottles of water annually to its hotels. That was unsustainable, management felt, which is why the chain now invests in the best water there is — H2O from its own tap. In guest rooms, you’ll find attractive hand-blown glass water bottles designed by an Olympic swimmer, who has an obvious affection for water, and a glass designer. Either fill from your sink or from water dispensers that serve still or sparkling. Your cost: $0.

On August 7, 2010, I board the mv Discovery for a report on the ship and on the All Discovery Cruising program on an Iceland & Greenland cruise and a special report on the Faroe Islands.

mv Discovery, Iceland to Greenland, August 7-14

Last night, I dined at the Hot Rock Grill on Silver Whisper. This new dining option, first introduced on Silver Spirit, makes for an enjoyable evening, especially if you’re someone who appreciates dining outdoors, some light cooking/grilling and food that doesn’t go cold.

Hot Rock Grill, situated on the pool deck, serves up anything but your normal cruise ship food. This cruise dining experience is essentially a cook-it-yourself affair, where you grill your own meat or seafood on volcanic stones that are scorchingly hot.

Of course, like everything Silversea Cruises does, the meats are top notch, Sterling Silver(sea?).

Diners are given the choice of a variety of cuts of beef as well as fish or shrimp. Dishes are preceded by a choice of three types of salads and accompanied with a skewer of vegetables and baked potato. Of course, there are oh-so-delicious desserts and as always, complimentary wines or cocktails.

I ordered the Filet Mignon, accompanied by lobster, grilling both myself. To make the job easy, the meats are seared before being delivered, still sizzling, to the table. The volcanic stone sits on top of a bamboo platter, and the best technique for grilling, I learned from my waiter, was to slice thin cuts of beef, then grill and eat. During the hour that I was there, the stone stayed hot, and I never put a cold cut of beef in my mouth.

I filmed the accompanying video on Silver Spirit, where I was only able to watch the concept take place. It was a pleasure to sit down and experience the Hot Rock Grill concept on Silver Whisper.

The fact that this cruise dining experience is conducted outdoors is also a big part of the attraction, and on our sailing from Helsinki to St. Petersburg just yesterday, it was enjoyable to sit as the evening sun glowed in the western sky and put a little sizzle in our steak. No doubt, I’ll return on one of the nights before this Baltic cruise ends, but not before trying Silver Whisper’s four other dining venues, Le Champagne, La Terrazza, The Restaurant, and one of my all-time favorites, room service in the comfort of my suite.

A sliver of sunset on the horizon, and yet the clock is ticking near midnight on the Baltic Sea.

From my balcony on Silver Whisper, I breathe in the sublime scene, gazing at the pink/orange band bordering a dramatic sky.

I listen to the song of the sea, mostly still, with riplets of water lapping like a lullaby against the hull.

Nothing beats a cruise, from peaceful moments like this one to fine dining and exceptional excursions ashore. Cruising is both restorative and an escape from a busy world.

Photo: The Baltic Sea as seen from Silver Whisper, en route from St. Petersburg to Tallinn.

Tomorrow, Tallinn

Soviet occupation ended in Tallinn 1991, but it was only in 2004 that Estonia — along with neighboring Latvia, Lithuania and Poland — joined the European Union. It will not be until 2011, however, when Estonia adopts the Euro.

Tallinn typically ranks among the favorite ports of call on Baltic cruise itineraries. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is clean, fun, enjoyable, and of course, immensely historic. Moreover, the Old Town is easily accessible from where most cruise ships dock.

You could easily walk into the Old Town, but complimentary shuttles will get you there and back in a jiffy.

In addition to its UNESCO status, Tallinn was selected as the European Capital of Culture 2011.

I have visited Tallinn several times while on Baltic cruises. One of my favorite experiences was on a family cruise in 2005. If you’re considering cruising the Baltic with your family, read more about that cruise, Cruising White Nights. The Baltic is a wonderful destination for families and very kid-friendly.

If you want to learn more about how to do Tallinn on your own, check out Avid Cruiser’s how-to guide to Tackling Tallinn.

Silversea Offers Excursions to Moscow from St. Petersburg.

If you have any grasp of geography, you know that Moscow isn’t a destination that ocean-going cruise ships can reach (river cruisers can, however). And yet yesterday, on a Baltic cruise, ten of us sailing on Silversea Cruises’ Silver Whisper, spent a full day exploring Red Square, the Kremlin and other Moscow attractions.

The shore excursion from St. Petersburg, where Whisper was docked, went for $999 per person, including the one-hour-plus flights to and from Moscow on a Boeing 737 (to) and Airbus 319 (from). Tour participants I spoke with said they felt the excursion was a good value. “When will I ever be an hour from Moscow again?” asked one.

Tour Specifics

Our tour began at 7 a.m. when we were shuttled by a private van to St. Petersburg airport.

The tour began at 7 a.m., when a private shuttle and guide transferred us to the St. Petersburg’s Pulkuvo Airport. After smoothing sailing through check-in and security clearance, we boarded the morning flight to Moscow, where a private van and a second (local) guide transferred us to the city center.

Four hours after leaving the English Embankment in St. Petersburg, we were standing in Moscow’s Red Square.

St. Basil’s Cathedral in Red Square

It was about 11 a.m. before we set foot in Red Square, where we spent about 45 minutes admiring the multicolored onion domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin Towers. Originally a marketplace, Red Square developed as the city’s major showpiece.

Additionally, we were able to see Lenin’s Mausoleum and walk inside the GUM Department Store, before heading to the Pushkin Cafe for coffee and cookies. For those who required something more substantial, a boxed lunch was offered for us to eat along the way (lunch would have cut into valuable sightseeing time). Bottled water was also provided throughout the day.

Coffee and Cookies at Pushkin Cafe

After leaving the charming Pushkin Cafe, we headed to the Kremlin. A few rules before entering the Kremlin: no backpacks, no cameras with lens larger than 72mm, and when inside the Kremlin, no photography and, oh, stay on the carpets in the Grand Kremlin Palace.

We visited cathedrals & palaces inside The Kremlin

The Kremlin, which is the official residence of the president of Russia, is a collection of palaces and cathedrals situated within the historic fortification (the Kremlin wall) in the heart of Moscow.

We spent about an hour in the lovely Grand Kremlin Palace, admiring the lavish reception halls, visited a cathedral and spent another hour in the Arsenal (Armory), where we admired a variety of well-perserved carriages, period costumes, crowns and the famous Fabergé eggs. Four others from our cruise who had spent the night in Moscow (an option also offered) joined us for the Kremlin tour.

We also visited Assumption Cathedral, once the private chapel of the tsars, to admire the beautiful frescoes and a striking iconostasis.

Dinner was at the elegant Writer’s Club

Afterward, we went for an early dinner at the Writer’s Club, housed in a stately mansion dating from the 1890s. The Writer’s Club has been the watering hole and meeting place of famous Russian (and Soviet) writers for more than 70 years.

No famous writers in sight during our visit, but we enjoyed the setting as well as the excellently prepared Stroganoff, accompanied by wine.

Shortly after 6 p.m., we boarded a private van to transfer back to the airport. Because of heavy traffic, it was after 7:30 before we arrived and checked in for the return flight.

By 11, we were back in St. Petersburg and on Silver Whisper, where a special dinner had been set up in the Panorama Lounge.

Final Word

The Moscow & The Kremlin shore excursion was well-executed and is highly recommended for those who want to see Moscow on one of three days while docked in St. Petersburg.

Silver Whisper Tidbit

In May 2003, Silver Whisper was docked on the Neva River for three days as it hosted the largest gathering of world leaders since WWII, including British Prime Minister Tony Blair, French President Jacques Chirac and German Chancellor Gerhard Schröder, who were attending tricentennial celebrations in St. Petersburg.

Head To Head In Helsinki: Silver Whisper & Silver Cloud

This morning, Silver Whisper docked in a friendly place: right next door to its little sister, Silver Cloud.

Captain Cataldo Stefano of Silver Whisper and Captain Mino Pontillo of Silver Cloud, taking a moment to visit while their ships were docked in Helsinki, Finland.

One of the more enjoyable aspects for me was watching crew visit from one ship to the other. After watching hugs and farewells, I asked one crew member on the way back from Cloud to Whisper, “Wife, friend, family?” “She’s my best friend,” he replied.

Even the captains took time to visit one another. I was lucky enough to share an espresso on the bridge with them and snap a photo.

The long and short of it: (foreground) Silver Whisper, guest capacity 382; crew capacity, 295, one shy of Silver Cloud’s guest capacity, 296.

Silver Cloud sets sail for Visby, Sweden; Whisper departs later for St. Petersburg.

Two years ago, Cloud turned its back on a less friendly neighbor in the very same spot.