By Owen Morrison

Special to AllThingsCruise

On the Seabourn Pride – We went to Sokhna which is a small port out of Cairo which has only been established recently that is to say the last 10 to 15 years.

Lesley went on Pyramids, Sphinx and Museum shore excursion and I stayed back at the ship because those things do not interest me particularly.

Lesley’s trip left at 8 a.m. and arrived back at about 6:30. I was somewhat worried about security, but I did not have to worry as I found out later the security staff on each bus had large guns and machine guns under their coats. I went out on the shuttle bus to a Red Sea resort at 9 a.m. and they would not let us off the wharf area without a truck of tourist police with us. Once our security on the shuttle showed their weapons we were allowed to pass in to the resort, but after we saw the army with rifles and other things outside the main gate, we went to the resort and caught the first bus back to the ship.

Lesley saw tanks and armed police and army in and on the way to Cairo. She also saw her cousin and husband from Goondiwindi, Australia,  in the museum in Cairo. What a small world? One of the men on the trip had his camera stolen by one of the peddlers at the Pyramids but it was recovered by the police and the thief arrested. It added a bit of excitement to the day. The peddlers were very much in your face.

At the museum she saw the gold sarcophagus of King Tut and the gold burial mask. The originals are not allowed to leave Egypt and the ones that go on tour are copies. The workmanship was superb. The pyramids are incredible; it is hard to believe that they were done without modern equipment. Lesley didn’t go inside the pyramid as it was a crawl space two feet wide by three feet high that you had to go down to get inside for about 300 feet. The Sphinx is wearing away and they seem to be doing some restoration work on it. It was a very long day and the schedule was tight for her.

Yesterday we went through the Suez Canal. We entered about 6 a.m. and got through at 3:30 p.m. Only one ship can go each way so you go through in convoys. We had six ships in our convoy and there were about 12 ships waiting at the lake about half way to go back where we had come from. There were ferries at various points along the canal to get car and trucks and people across. They go in between the ships going through the canal. There is a huge bridge crossing the canal and also bailey bridging along the banks so they can get across.

There is army or other military outpost every 10 kilometers and we saw them launching a bailey bridge set up with generators which drive the bridge and put it in place at night because no ship goes through the canal at night, which gives the locals access to the waterway. We saw one vehicle crossing where the ferries take three large trucks, with a queue with about 50 trucks with trailers wanting to cross. We saw an ambulance coming along the parallel road to the canal with its siren going only to be held up waiting for the next ferry.

Once we got to the end of the canal there was Port Said and many ships in port. There was a large sand storm happening so you could not see much and it was quiet rough for a while after we left the Egyptian waters. Now we have about 900 km to go and will be in Civitavecchia, the port for Rome, at 7 a.m.  We have arranged for our bags to be transferred from this ship (Seabourn Pride) to our new ship (Seabourn Sojourn) in port.

We leave Civitavecchia on the Seabourn Sojourn at 7:00 pm on 6 May for our next journey.

Last December Chet and I took a cruise on Seabourn from Dubai to Singapore. We were on the Seabourn Spirit for over two weeks and made many new friends. Two of those were Owen and Lesley Morrison who live near Brisbane, Australia. They loved their Seabourn cruise so much that they signed on for a couple of more cruises this spring. Owen has been sending “Postcards” to friends and family and they are so well-written that I thought I would share them with you. Plus, right now they are traveling in a part of the world — the Mideast — that many cruisers are wondering about. Here is his first-hand report.

By Owen Morrison

Special to AllThingsCruise

Yesterday (April 29) we were in Aqaba, Jordan, and we could have gone to Israel a few miles from where we were at no cost at the border going in, but there was a $75 fee to return to Jordan.  So we choose not to go for a number of reasons, one was that we needed a visa that they put on a separate page in your passport, so you can take it out when you go to an Arab country. We have been told some Arab countries will not let you in if your passport shows you have been to Israel. Also, safety is a concern in Israel at the moment.

Owen and Lesley Morrison

So we just stayed in Jordan. We took the shuttle bus in to town, but as it is Friday most of the gold shops and large shops were closed as Friday and Saturday is the Arab weekend. Sunday to Thursday is their working week. The small shops and souvenir shops were open and there were shops selling water wings and rubber tubes so all the children to go to the beach. We walked around town and at the crossings here you take your life in your hands as they do not stop for anyone. There was even a McDonalds in town.

Lesley was going to buy a cloth bag for Tayla our eldest grandchild, but they wanted too much even when we haggled, so we did not buy it. We sat in the park and some local Jordanian children came up and talked to us in broken English and before we left I asked their mother if I could take their photos and first she said okay, but then the father said no. So after about 45 minutes dodging the traffic we went back on the shuttle bus  to the ship.

We did not go on the tour to Petra because we were told that there was three hours of walking over very uneven ground with loose rocks underfoot. I could have taken a donkey ride or a donkey ans cart ride, but I talked to someone who did the cart ride and his back and bottom were very sore afterwards as there is no padding. Good decision on our part not to go. We got one of our friends to try and get a DVD for us about it, we have got some books about it and one of our friends will send us some photos.

Petra is an ancient Nabatean city north of here. It is one of the Seven Wonders of the World and is situated in the remote Shara Mountains. It was a vital part of a major trading route connecting ancient Mesopotamia, Africa, China and India. The locals built the city of rock in the mountains and to this day it is a place of magic with its ornate carved facades and ever changing colors. The city was occupied by the Romans and the Byzantines and they have left their mark as well.

The Dead Sea is north of here as well but with the trouble in Syria it is not the place to go without security

Wadi Rum is 45 minutes north of Aqaba and offers a combination of desert landscape, desert wildlife, archaeological ruins and is the land where T. H. Lawrence and the Arab revolt took place. The Bedouin culture still exists  here.. We were going on a 4-wheel drive to this region but the tour was cancelled due to lack of numbers.

We are now on our way back to Egypt to the port near Cairo named Sokhna and we arrive there tomorrow morning. Lesley is going on a tour to The Giza Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum. After that we move on to the Suez Canal.

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The very morning we arrived in Fiji, we joined the MV Reef Endeavor in the middle of a seven-day “Discovery Heritage Cruise” and soon learned we were in for a busy day. Instead of taking us to the ship immediately, they put our group of eight writers on the bus with all the other passengers and we were off to visit the Bouma waterfalls. Despite the fact that we had had so little sleep in the past 40 hours, we were not about to miss this island highlight.

We were on the northeastern Fijian island of Taveuni, known as the “garden island” because it receives tremendous amounts of rain and is so green and lush that it is similar to the Hawaiian island of Kauai. The trip to the waterfall was made in an open-air bus over dirt and gravel roads. It took about 45 minutes to get there, followed by a ten-minute walk. There are actually three waterfalls but all but four of us only went as far as the first one which was quite spectacular.

Not only was it high and full, but it fell into a lovely pond suitable for swimming and most people went swimming, except for some of us who were still in our flying attire. There was a high ledge next to the waterfall, and some of the more stalwart (including several teens) took to jumping off the ledge into the water.

A light rain fell during much of our visit and it cooled those of us who could not swim. After our waterfall visit, we returned to the park headquarters for a picnic lunch provided by the ship. This gave us our first change to meet our fellow passengers. There were 41 aboard the ship, including three families with children, before we joined them. The ship will actually carry a max of 168, however, this seven-day itinerary has not received lots of publicity.

Most of the passengers are from Australia and New Zealand…in fact, most visitors to Fiji are from these two countries, which are a 3-4 hour plane ride away. The rest on board are a mix of American, Dutch and Fijians. All speak English and as they have already been traveling together for four days, they are a friendly group.

Finally, about 2:30 p.m. we actually board the Reef Endeavour and find our assigned cabins, only to learn that we must leave at 4:30 p.m. to head to the local village for a kava ceremony and a feast. Again, this experience is not to be missed so we all quickly shower, don island attire, attend a quick safety briefing from the captain and head into the village of Naselesele for the evening’s ceremonies.

A Fijian village is a collection of homes and outbuildings and usually everyone in a particular village is related. Some are large enough to have a church, or a community hall or a store…but many are just family enclaves. We find this village to be quite large…it has a community hall with electricity and a church under construction. Hosting groups such as ours helps enable them to fund such improvements.

Tonight the people from two villages have come together to host us under the auspices of the local tribal chief Ratu Talema who controls almost half the island. There are perhaps 150 men, women and children present, most dressed in their best Fijian finery. All, except the fidgety children, sit on woven mats while we Western guest are permitted to sit in chairs.

After we arrive, we witness the solemn kava ceremony, performed by seven young men under the keen eye of the village elders. The chief and our captain exhange gifts and formal greetings in this welcoming ceremony, which is centuries old. After it is complete, the women came forth and gave each of us lovely Fijian leis, which they made by hand. Some of these were quite elaborate.

Our dinner here is a feast called a lovo where everything is cooked in an underground pit. Most of the meats and vegetables are wrapped in banana and tarot leaves. (The ship actually provides and prepares the food, which the villagers dig the pit and assist in cooking.)

After dinner, the villagers perform songs and dances for us. Such performances are called mekes and they are quite exuberant as Fijians love music. A choir of men and women sang various songs while different groups performed. The most outstanding was a group of young men, garbed as in grass skirts, who danced as warriors. Many women and children also performed and it was a memorable evening under the clear Fijian sky.

That night, finally, I managed to get nine hours of sleep. Whew! What a great first day in Fiji.

The trip to Fiji can be a killer, particularly if you are flying from the East Coast of the U.S. My trip, which began several days ago, began in Ft. Myers, Fla. It included a flight from there to Atlanta, a second flight from there to Los Angeles, a five-hour layover, then an 11-hour flight to Nadi, Fiji, followed by a final flight to Taveuni where our small group boarded the MV Reef Endeavor small cruise ship.

I lost track of the hours, but let me tell you, that is a long, long time. In all of that duration, I only got five hours sleep, on the trip from LAX to Fiji. That said, two days later…after my first full night of sleep, I am feeling great and glad to be here.

Lesson learned. If I make this trip again, I will stopover somewhere on the way to or from. Either on the U.S. West Coast or Hawaii. On my way home, I am stopping off in San Diego for a few days to visit grandchildren and I am so glad I planned it that way.

But enough about that. Fiji is a wonderful place to visit (some actually stop over in Fiji on their way to Australia or New Zealand) and well worth considering when you want a tropical adventure. Most of the people who visit here are from Australia or New Zealand, as the flights only take 3-4 hours. Serious scuba divers usually find their way here, too, as it has some of the most famous reefs in the world.

Our 7 a.m. Twin-Otter flight from Nadi, site of the international airport, to the northeastern island of Taveuni, only took about an hour and a half but was a wonderful introduction to Fiji. First, we flew over the interior of the main island of Viti Levu which has both rolling mountains and valleys filled with farms. Everything looked incredibly lush. Every shade of green imaginable.

It rains here a lot, obviously, and so the cloud formations were our next surprise. They were huge and poofy, like mounds of whipped cream splashed in incredible patterns. First, the high walls of clouds reminded me of the glaciers of Alaska but then the formations became so weird I could have sworn we were in Antarctica again.

There was a storm ahead, so the pilot deftly flew us west around it, and then we were over clear ocean where we could see the green patterns of reefs in the azure water. The reef patterns were almost as lovely as the clouds. Some of the reefs surrounded islands, while others were underwater chains that we first identified by ripples in the water and then, as we flew close over them, realized themselves into undersea formations. It was one flight that I hated to end.

Next: We join the MV Reef Endeavor cruise ship operated by Captain Cook Cruises.

In just about two weeks, I will be heading to Fiji. I will be attending a meeting of the Freelance Council of the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW). However,  before the meeting I will be sailing for several days on the MV Reef Endeavour. The small cruise ship is operated by Captain Cook Cruises and sailing only in the islands of Fiji.

So I was happy to learn today that Captain Cook Cruises has recently completed an extensive rebuild and renovation the MV Reef Endeavour, with the ship now featuring brand new suites and interconnecting family rooms and a refurbished spa and gymnasium.

Tabua suite

The ships top deck Tabua staterooms have been transformed into luxurious and much larger one bedroom Tabua Suites. The suites feature separate bedroom and lounge areas, two ensuite bathrooms, television, mini-bar and tea and coffee facilities.

Families will now have the choice between the new and spacious interconnecting family rooms which sleep two adults and two children or the inside family cabins which sleep four people in bunk style accommodation.

The Reef Endeavour’s Senikai Spa has had a complete refurbishment. The spa is now in a more spacious Tabua Stateroom and can offer couples massages at the same time, perfect for honeymooners who book a “His & Her” package.

Senikai Spa has also undergone a total new colour design and now features plush blue carpet, freshly painted beige walls and black wooden furniture and room trimmings, giving the spa a new chic, modern but relaxing atmosphere.

An outdoor massage area has also been set up next to Senikai Spa, so passenger can combine a relaxing spa treatment with spectacular views of the Yasawa Islands. Massages are still available by Senikai Spa on all the islands the cruise visits.

Passengers can now get their daily exercise in the Reef Endeavour’s new gymnasium that has been fully equipped with two bikes, treadmill, rowing machine, weights, gym ball and boxing gear.

“These rebuilds and refurbishments complete a whole new experience for our many repeat passengers and something exciting and unique for passengers embarking on their first cruise. Now passengers will continue to be welcomed by the friendliest people in the world in an even more comfortable and relaxed environment.” said Nick Hortle, CEO, Captain Cook Cruises.

For further information and bookings, please contact Captain Cook Cruises at phone  +61-2-9206 1111, Email: fiji@captaincook.com.au or visit www.captaincook.com.au.

I will be writing about my trip so stay tuned!

One pool was removed and this stylish relaxation area was installed

Yesterday, during Cruise Shipping Miami, Chet and I toured the Crystal Symphony cruise ship which was in Miami for the day. We have cruised on this ship twice, once in the Mediterranean and once through the Panama Canal.

We looked forward to seeing all of the changes that were made to the ship when it went into an extensive drydock in November 2009. This ship, which was built in 1995 – making it one of the older vessels currently in service – is in immaculate condition and has retained its five-star ranking. It still carries around 900 passengers with a crew of 545.

Bright furnishings in the Palm Court

Here is just some of what was done in 2009:

All of the rooms were re-done, with new furnishings. All of the shops and most of the public spaces were updated, too.

An intimate bar called the Luxe was installed in what was formerly a portion of the casino.

The Bistro restaurant was updated and is a favorite for breakfast and lunch.

There used to be a long wall in front of the Starlight Lounge, cutting it off from sunlight provided by large hall windows. This wall has been removed, allowing natural light into the room and making it a more open space.

The Vintage Room was added, which will accommodate small dinner parties of up to 12 people.

The former pan-Asian restaurant was transformed into Nobu’s Silk Road and Sushi Bar, featuring recipes by Nobu. The Prego restaurant is still Italian, but now has the imprint of chef Piero Selvaggio. (There is no upcharge for dining in these speciality restaurants.)

The Lido was transformed, with the long buffet lines removed and food stations installed. Just outside of this casual restaurant, the second swimming pool was removed and a large relaxing area was installed. This was perhaps the most impressive change we saw and we would really enjoy this area of comfortable chairs and sofas, most shaded.

The main pool area was also changed, with the pool being made smaller and a single very large hot tub installed. “You can always find a deck chair,” stated Mimi Weisband, vice president of public relations for Crystal, who was conducting our tour.

Other key elements of the ship like the Palm Court, a great lounge overlooking the bow which is used for afternoon tea, dancing and other activities look as fresh as ever.

Chet kept commenting how much he liked the changes and I totally agree. We will share a few photos here and urge you to consider a Crystal cruise when you want an upscale experience with like-minded cruisers.

Photos by Chet Janssens

It has been a very busy day at Cruise Shipping Miami (CSM). The day started off with the interesting State of the Industry presentation (see Heidi Allison Shane’s blog for details of who spoke)….

Some highlights:

During the recent recession, the cruise industry continued to be profitable…one of the few industries to make that claim.

Orders for new cruise ships have slowed down over the past three years which should be good for the industry, as cabin prices should slowly increase.

Several ships are returning to Alaska in 2012 now that the state has decreased its cruise tax by 25 percent, increased tourism marketing and has eased some of its environmental regulations.

Kevin Sheehan, president of NCL, noted that cruise lines are now recognizing the importance of outdoor space, hence, the additions of many outdoor attractions such as water slides, large-screen movie screens, adults-only “sanctuaries” and zip lines. “All of these bring passengers closer and closer to the sea,” he said.

There is still a huge untapped market for cruising around the world. In the US, only 3.1 percent of the population has taken a cruise. The numbers are significantly smaller for Europe, Asia and Australia…meaning there is much opportunity for growth.

Everyone seemed to agree that Europe is the experiencing the most growth at this time. “The Old World is the New World for cruising,” said Pierfrancesco Vago, head of MSC Cruises, which is based in Europe. Vago noted that most Europeans have 34 days vacation a year, compared to 9 days in the U.S.

One reason for the success of the industry is that its assets are moveable…making cruise ships much more flexible than land-based resorts.

The cruise industry is emerging from the recession much more global that it was going in and that is not going to change. Ships are now being based in places not even considered just a few years ago, like Australia.

Princess previews newest ship

Later in the day, Princess held a press conference announcing the name of its newest ship. She will be called the Royal Princess, the third time the line has given the name to a ship. She will debut in spring of 2013 and carry 3,600 passengers.

A new design element revealed today is an over-water SeaWalk, a top-deck glass-bottomed enclosed walkway on the ship’s starboard side extending more than 28 feet beyond the edge of the vessel. From here passengers can enjoy dramatic views, including to the sea 128 feet below. On the ship’s port side, passengers will find a similarly-unique cantilevered SeaView bar, featuring cocktails with unbeatable vistas.

Also on her top decks, Royal Princess will feature a new adults-only pool surrounded by seven plush private cabanas that appear to be floating on the water. Two additional pools will flank a tropical island that will offer pool seating by day, and by night will become an outdoor dance club, complete with a dazzling water and light show.

Princess’ signature adults-only haven, The Sanctuary, will be expanded both in size and amenities. The popular poolside theater, Movies Under the Stars, will play a starring role mid-ship with an expanded size and high-definition viewing.

All outside staterooms on the ship will have balconies.

Today we leave for the Cruise Shipping Miami (CSM) in Miami. Formerly known as SeaTrade, this annual meeting of cruise industry executives, vendors, media and public relations personnel is always interesting and provides lots of clues as to what is going on in the industry.

Anybody who is anyone in cruising will be there, so for those of us who write about the industry it is our chance to meet and talk with the top folks.

A lot of wining and dining also goes on so that is fun, too!

Tomorrow morning the conference opens with the “State of the Cruise Industry” panel which always features the presidents of several cruise lines answering general questions. This is when they tell us how tough it is, or that times are getting better. Last year, there was quite a bit of discussion about the Alaska cruise tax (the governor of Alaska was in attendance)…and since then Alaska has done much to alleviate that burden.

The Editor-At-Large of AllThingsCruise, Heidi Allison Shane, and I will be there for several days. When we aren’t interviewing cruise execs, we will be promoting AllThingsCruise both to the industry and to the media.

Look for more reports here!

I have always been a fan of small ship cruises, particularly to Alaska. There is just no better way to experience the glaciers, wildlife and scenery of that vast state than from a smaller vessel.

However, it appears that slots on small ships in Alaska will be at a premium this year. Here is news from a company called AdventureSmith Explorations, which sells cruises from many different small ship companies:

Considering an Alaska cruise vacation this year? Then best be an early bird, advises small ship cruise expert AdventureSmith Explorations (www.adventuresmithexplorations.com), the active travel company that secures matches between adventure-seeking clients and a treasure trove of expedition ships.

Todd Smith, founder and president, said a number of forces converging on this year’s Alaska cruise season mandate booking early. Travel is rebounding and with the State of Alaska doing more marketing, demand is up. Alaska sales are up over 30 percent from last year for Smith’s company alone that is poised to see its biggest-ever Alaska year. Plus Cruise West that once controlled 30 percent of the Alaska cruise inventory is no longer in business.

“Because of more demand at a time of less inventory, we’re suggesting that people make their travel commitments earlier than usual in order to assure themselves space on a small expedition ship of their choice,” Smith said.

He suggested that folks looking for a Cruise West alternative consider Exploring Alaska’s Coastal Wilderness http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/60 aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird or Sea Lion. The industry’s top on-board naturalists and expedition leaders have been slated for this program.

Another option is the Alaska Island Spirit Cruise aboard the Island Spirit, http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/56 offering exceptional value and a combination of nature, wilderness and authentic port stops.

New to the scene are two redesigned vessels being introduced this season that are expected to fill up quickly because they offer a high level of land-based adventure activity, said Smith. These are InnerSea Discoveries’ Eastern Coves Adventure Cruise http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/38 and Western Coves Adventure Cruise http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/54 aboard either the 156-foot, 49 passenger Wilderness Adventurer or the 169-foot, 49 passenger MV Wilderness Discoverer.

For the first time in the history of Alaska cruising, guests aboard these two state-of-the-art ships will be able to pick and choose from such traditional activities as in-depth wilderness explorations by Zodiac, kayak or naturalist guided walks, to new, ground-breaking optional activities such as overnight wilderness kayaking, hiking and camping, expert fishing charters from the ship (local guides/boats rendezvous with the vessel to take clients fishing for the day) and flight-seeing. There will be some new activities included in the programming as well such as paddle boarding, caving and snorkeling.

Smith said that as many of the bigger expedition vessels are beginning to fill up, more travelers are considering AdventureSmith Explorations’ selection of adventure yachts.

“From luxury to floating base camps we have an active Alaskan yacht cruise for every ability and budget,” he said. For example, Smith points out:

Glacier Bay Adventure Cruise

http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/160

Alaskan Safari Yacht Cruises

http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/19

Active Inside Passage

http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/128

Active Prince William Sound Discovery Cruise

http://www.adventuresmithexplorations.com/itinerarydetails.php/advid/127