This cruise has been months in the planning and today the trip begins. In an hour we depart for the airport to fly from Ft. Myers to Atlanta, then a few hours later we fly on to the exotic city of Dubai.

Chet and I have never been to Dubai so we are going to spend a couple of days seeing the sights. Follow me here and on Facebook to read about our adventures and see our photos.

Then on Nov. 30 we board the Seabourn Spirit, spend the night in Dubai, tour a bit more the next day and then sail at 6 p.m. heading for Oman. We will sail for 20 days, through India, Thailand and Malaysia. All of the ports we are visiting will be new to  us.

We are also eager to experience the famous hospitality of Seabourn. Does it live up to its press?

Our 14-hour flight from Atlanta to Dubai last night went smoothly and we both managed to get some decent sleep. When we arrived just before 8 p.m., it was nice to have just a 10-minute taxi ride (35 dirham, about $10) to the Park Hyatt Hotel.

I discovered the Park Hyatt online and am very glad that I did. It is an exquisite property: a low-rise hotel in the middle of a bustling metropolis. It is flanked on one side by the Dubai Creek Golf Club and other the other by the Dubai Yacht Club. All are situated on “the Creek,” which in this case is the quiet meandering Dubai Creek (it would be called a river anywhere else) which winds through the north part of the city.

The Park Hyatt overlooks the Dubai Yacht Club

This was to be our home for two nights and we appreciated the spacious room and the grandiose bathroom (almost larger than the room). We walked around the hotel (which is softly lit by candles all over the grounds), enjoyed a glass of wine on the Terrace overlooking the marina and then went immediately to bed. Long days of travel do take their toll.

We woke fairly refreshed this morning and it was wonderful to luxuriate on the balcony with hot steaming coffee provided complimentary from the hotel…

We had a bit of time to explore the golf club and marina before our guide Jahan picked us up for a thorough day of touring. This is our first trip to Dubai and we were fortunate to have the Dubai Tourism Authority arrange a comprehensive schedule for us.

We soon discovered that there are really only two primary areas of interest for first-time visitors: The Creek and The Beach. Archaeologists have discovered that people have occupied the banks of the Creek since approximately 4,000 B.C. However, throughout history mostly small settlements were here, primarily used for trading. Most of the residents were Bedouins who lived a nomadic lifestyle, using camels for transportation.

Part of the reason that the Creek was not used more heavily for commerce is that the mouth of the creek was shallow and full of silt. It was not until the 1970’s that the Creek was dredged to allow small ships to sail further up the river. Then in the 1960’s oil was discovered and Dubai was destined to be changed forever.

The souks reflect the markets of yesteryear

It is well worth exploring the Creek area before you plunge into the “new” Dubai. Today we first visited the Gold Souk. This bazaar with world-famous with approximately 350 shops. You may or may not want to buy anything but it is interesting to see the intricate designs, many specifically for wedding ornamentation. If you do decide to purchase, know that the price of gold per gram is fixed, however, you are expected to negotiate the price of the “labor” to design the item.

From here we walked through the spice souk and then a general bazaar where everything from T-shirts to shoes are sold. Here the shops of very small and along small alleys.

Many local laborers come here to shop as prices are far below those found in shopping malls. This can be a good place to pick up small souvenirs such as embroidered gauze tops (good as beach cover-ups) and ornamental purses, but realize that most of these products are produced in either India or Pakistan. Unfortunately, you are likely to be pestered by street vendors who are trying to sell you everything from coffee to purses (they are illegal, but omnipresent).

The Gold Souk is full of small shops

From here we take a water taxi across the creek. It will cost you only 1 dirham (about 25 cents) to hop on a small communal boat called an Abra or you can hire your own for not much more. While on the boat, we are able to see that the Creek is lined with larger wooden boats called dhous (pronounced “dow”) all along its banks. These bring products from Iran, India and Pakistan and take back goods to those countries. The crews on these boats must live on board they as they do not have residency permits for Dubai. There are at least a hundred of these in the river and most are pretty basic. They stay from two days to a week. It is somewhat amazing to see these rather crude vessels just a half mile from the grand yachts at the marina.

Also, when you are looking where to stay in Dubai be careful of hotels that advertise that they are “on the Creek.” In actuality, most are across the highway from the Creek and you really cannot access the water, even for a stroll, because the wharfs are full of dhous. By contrast, the Park Hyatt Hotel is directly on the water.

The Dubai Museum is a must-see

From the Abra station, we walk another five minutes to the Dubai Museum. Located in a fort dating back to Bedouin times, it is a must-see for the first-time visitor who wants to understand the growth of this city. The displays are not elaborate, but are well-documented. The information, all which is in Arabic and English, is straightforward and easy to understand. It will take you only about an hour to go through the museum but you will come away with a much clearer understanding of the history of Dubai.

The upper level has displays and artifacts, while the lower level has a series of dioramas showing life in earlier times.

The present ruler of Dubai is His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. He is also the vice president and prime minister of the United Arab Emirates.

For more information on travel to Dubai, visit www.definitelydubai.com.

Tomorrow: Everything is Dubai is “over the top”

United Arab Emirates:

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a federation of seven sheikhdoms located in the southeastern corner of the Arabian Peninsula. Bordered by the Sultanate of Oman and the Gulf of Oman to the east, Saudi Arabia to the south and west, and by the Arabian Gulf to the north, the total land area, including 20 islands, is 83,000 sq km (32,278 sq mi).

The seven emirates are Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Qaiwain, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah. The capital and the largest city of the federation, Abu Dhabi, is located in the emirate of the same name.

The estimated population of the UAE was 5.6 million in 2007. Arabic is the official language and Islam is the state religion. The currency is the Arab Emirates Dirham ($1 US is equivalent to around 3.6 dirhams). The UAE has one of the world’s highest standards of living and the average life expectancy is 72 years.

Yesterday we went to the top. Actually, to two tops.

First, we went to the top of the tallest building in the world, the 160-story Burj Khalifa, which opened earlier this year in Dubai. Then we went to the top of a ski hill, certainly the only ski hill in the Mideast.

The Burj Khalifa

And – typical of Dubai, where everything is the biggest, tallest, longest or whatever – both of these are in shopping malls. Yes, Dubai is one of the great shopping destinations of the world, too.,

Not only is the Burj Khalifa the world’s tallest building, but it has broken two other impressive records as well: tallest structure, previously held by the KVLY-TV mast in Blanchard, ND, and the tallest free-standing structure, previously held by the CN Tower in Toronto, Canada.

If you do nothing else when you visit Dubai, you should go to “The Top.”  Not only will you enjoy extraordinary views of the entire Dubai region…yep, it definitely adjoins the desert … but you will learn about how this extraordinary building was created. If you purchase a timed ticket online in advance, it will cost 100 dirham (about $27 US), or if you want to just walk up it will cost you 400 dirham (a hefty $110). For more information, go to www.burjkhalifa.ae or www.atthetop.ae.

You access the Burj (which means “tower’) through the Dubai Mall, which is….yes…the largest mall in the world with more than 1,200 retail outlets. It also has a huge and aquarium and “underwater zoo,” an Olympic-size ice rink, a 22-screen movie theater, its own gold souk with 200 jewelry shops and a indoor-outdoor streetscape with the only retractable roof in Dubai. At night, the mall features a sound-and-light show with fountains (much like at the Bellagio in Las Vegas…only bigger, of course). Check out www.thedubaimall.com.

The Burj and the mall are the centerpiece of a development area which calls its “Downtown Dubai” which is an interesting marketing concept because Dubai really does not have a downtown, but if it does it is probably in the older area down by the Creek. Oh well, Dubai is continually re-inventing itself. I know that if I return in 10 years, I will barely recognize it.

Yes, Virginia, there really are ski hills in Dubai

After taking a good look at the desert from the top of the Burj, we headed over to another of the city’s huge malls, the Mall of the Emirates. The centerpiece here is Ski Dubai, a real ski hill and snow park that is quite popular with the locals. We were surprised to find the complex bigger and higher than we thought it would be.

Although Chet and I are both skiers, we decided to jeopardize our entire trip by possibly slipping or falling on ice in Dubai (who would believe that excuse?) So, although our daughter Jen said we were wimps, we opted to don snow boots and jackets to venture inside.

Wow, it was really cold. And, yes, the snow was real.

We were certainly impressed with this attraction. First, you buy admission to either the snow park or the ski slopes. Then they suit you up with boots, a jacket and appropriate equipment (you must provide your own hat and gloves or buy them at their shop). There are lockers for leaving your shoes and personal items.

You enter through the snow park. This has lots to offers littles ones and those who do not ski. There is bobsledding, tobogganing, tubing, sledding and a snow cavern full of play equipment. You can even build a snowman.

If you are going to ski or snowboard, you hop on the four-person chairlift which takes you first to an intermediate platform where there is a small café for coffee, hot chocolate or sandwiches…from here you can go tubing or tobogganing, as well as access the three shorter runs. Then you go on up to the top where you can access the two higher and steeper runs. Lessons are offered to the inexperienced and they even sell accident insurance!

A ski resort inside a shopping mall

Ski Dubai is open Sundays-Wednesdays, from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursdays from 10 a.m. to midnight; Fridays from 9 a.m. to midnight and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. (I should note here that the “weekend days” in Dubai are Friday and Saturday and that Sunday is a regular work day.)

Admission to the snow park is 120 dirham ($32 US) for adults; a two-hour ski pass is 180 ($50 US) for adults. You can buy extra hours or an all day pass. If you just want to take a ride on the chairlift, a one-ride pass costs 80 dirham. For more information about this one-of-a-kind attraction, go to www.skidxb.com.

For more information on travel to Dubai, visit www.definitelydubai.com.

Tomorrow: The Dubai of today, where will it end?

A view from the top of the Burj Khalifa

This is will be my last article about Dubai…after all, I am already on the Seabourn Spirit but there is still a bit more that needs to be written about the fascinating city of Dubai.

My first article told you a bit about old Dubai, including the museum, the gold souk and the history of the Creek.

The famous Burj al Arab on Jumeirah Beach

Then I wrote about the two new wonders of Dubai…the Burj Khalifa tower and the inside ski resort. Now I want to talk about the rest of the “new” Dubai. This is the Dubai that you are hearing about in the news…the fabulous buildings of Dubai.

For many years now, the Burj al Arab…also known as “The Sail”…has been the city’s most famous building and over the years has become a symbol for the city. To its credit, it is a “seven-star” hotel and it has all kinds of glamorous accoutrements, like a tennis court and helipad at the very top. And this is the building that Tiger Woods hit golf balls off the roof.

But I rather think its fame is going to be eclipsed by the new Burj Khalifa and all of the other magnificent buildings that are under construction. Until now, the most fantastic architecture I had ever seen was in Shanghai…but Dubai is really a playground for those who design buildings. It seems that anything goes…there are several buildings currently under construction that seem to defy gravity, many featuring huge curved sides.

Most of these buildings are located along “The Beach,” that is, the edge of the Arabian Sea. And it is here that you will find the famous islands that Dubai has created out of reclaimed land/sand. For now, the only one of these complexes that is underway is The Palm, a large island shaped like a palm. It is full of residences and hotels, the most famous of which is The Atlantis Dubai, which crowns the top of the island. There are two other Palm-like developments planned…and a huge development of all islands called “The World,” which for now is just a clump of dredged materials.

The economic crisis dramatically slowed the building of those huge developments, but construction is still going on 24/7 on many other buildings. Some years ago it was said that a quarter of the world’s construction cranes were working in Dubai. That probably isn’t the case now, but there are still plenty of them to be seen.

All that said, Dubai is really a very manageable city. It is not all that large and there are still many undeveloped areas. It is a fun place for tourists to explore. However, do know that Islam is the state religion and visitors must be respectful and modestly dressed when visiting mosques. Many local women still opt to “cover” themselves with long robes called abayas and headscarves, however, it is not required. Also, alcohol is usually only served in hotels and a few special tourist areas, so it is expensive…$10 for a glass of wine is standard. For more information on travel to Dubai, visit www.definitelydubai.com.

Tomorrow: We set sail on the Seabourn Spirit

On Sunday, Dec. 3, we docked in the small city of Muscat, capital of the small country of Oman. We really did not know what to expect of this port … Oman is not exactly a tourism hotspot…but were pleasantly surprised to find it extremely clean and very modern, even in its old city. It claims to be the smallest capital city in the world.

Entering the port of Muscat in Oman

It is also dramatic, as the harbor areas are framed by rugged mountains, not real tall, but picturesque.

We opted to take the ship’s tour, “Magical Muscat” which promised the highlights of the city. This being Friday … their holy day, not a work day…the streets were quiet and there were not many people to be seen, except in the Muttrah Souk, which appears to be popular both with tourists and local women…but more on that later.

Oman is a country of 2.8 million people, roughly 105,000 square miles, and is located at the tip and on the eastern shores of the Arabian Peninsula. By land, it is only a couple of hours from Dubai. The ruler is Sultan Qaboos bin Sa’id who has led the country for 40 years. He is an absolute ruler…so absolute he is also the minister of defense, the minister of finance and minister of religion. But his country seems to have benefited from his leadership and on Nov. 18 celebrated both its national day and his 70^th birthday. There are many pictures of him hanging from buildings through Muscat.

Typical attire of Omani men

Unlike Dubai, where 80 percent of the population are foreigners, here 75 percent are Omani and the rest from elsewhere. Omanis enjoy free education, free healthcare, no taxes and cheap gasoline…oil and natural gas being its major exports. The Omani people are rather more traditional in their dress; most men wear long light-colored robes called dishdashah with either turbans or small embroidered caps called kummahs. All Islamic women wear black abayas and cover their heads, although the head scarves are often patterned. (Tourists are asked to dress modestly, covering their legs and arms and women must cover their heads when entering a mosque.)

Our first look at Muscat was driving through the “new city” to the Grand Mosque. Located several miles inland, this mosque is quite magnificent and will accommodate 6,500 men and 700 women inside and up to 20,000 on its grounds. The interiors feature Carrera marble and chandeliers of Swarovski crystal. It was built by the Sultan solely with his funds. (We cannot go inside because it is Friday.)

Young Omani father

On the way to the mosque, we see all kinds of lovely new buildings, most painted white.  Many are luxury car dealerships but there is a new opera house under construction…the sultan wanting to add some culture of the primary recreational activities of camel- and horse-racing. Lots of money is being invested in infrastructure, with lots of new roads and lovely landscaping (all irrigated with desalinated water.) Notably, there are no skyscrapers….buildings are limited in height in order to keep a traditional look to the city and it is very pleasing. All signage is in Arabic and English.

Bags for sale in the Muttrah Souk

From here we go back to the wharf and visit the Muttrah Souk. This is a popular shopping spot, a fairly typical Arabian bazaar where bargaining is expected. The main aisles are geared for tourists, selling brass, pashminas, embroidered bags, spices and frankincense (which is produced in Oman). The side aisles are geared for locals, selling groceries, clothing, baby items, sundries, fabrics and more. It is fun to explore and good for picture-taking…however, many shops are burning frankincense and it gives me a headache, which spoils my shopping intentions. We figure that most everything here is made in India or Pakistan anyway, and decide to do our shopping there.

Omani merchant in the souk

The tour visits a small local museum (we are told that a larger museum is being built) and finishes at a palace in the old city. This palace is used primarily for ceremonial occasions as the sultan lives in a new palace near the airport.

Our visit to Oman is only a few hours, but enjoyable. It is obvious that Oman is trying to develop tourism as a source of future income. There are two major hotels in Muscat, the Shangri-La and Al Buscat Palace. To learn more, visit www.omantourism.gov.om.

Cows are sacred in India; this one is being led to the temple

On Monday, Dec. 6, the Seabourn Spirit docked in Mumbai, India…formerly known as Bombay…a city of 20 million plus people.

This is our first call in India (there will be two more) and for this we all had to obtain Indian visas in advance. No one could sail this itinerary if they did not have an Indian visa. We obtained our visas about six weeks in advance through a visa service and the fees were about $265 for the two of us. So do consider such fees when planning a trip to thi

Souvenir vendor

f the world.

Personally, I was excited…I have always wanted to visit India and this was to be my first experience with this exotic country. However, I was realistic…I knew there would be poverty, extreme poverty…but I also know that India is one of the richest cultures in the world and I was determined to appreciate as much of it as I could.

I realize that cruising to India is not the best way to experience it…obviously, it calls for a couple of weeks of in-depth exploration and probably several visits. But I had this opportunity and was not about to miss it.

Our ship, the Seabourn Spirit, was only there from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and our tour…and I am glad that we did an organized ship tour…was from 8:30 to 2 p.m. But we really did cover a lot in that time. But because this was, at best, a superficial visit, here are some impressions:

Victorian building in Mumbail

1. The city is dingy. No way around it. Everything is gray, dirty, time-worn, splotched, weedy and mostly unpainted. That which is painted is dirty grey or beige. This hits you right from the start and if you don’t get past this, you aren’t going to enjoy much else about the city.

2. There are people everywhere. This I had also expected. We were there at the time that people we coming to work from the train stations and the sidewalks were full of people. Plus, people from the rural areas had flocked in to celebrate the birth of a local hero. The word “teeming” comes to mind. I think the only city I have seen as busy is Hanoi, Vietnam. The traffic was unbelievable and no one followed the traffic lights. Our guide informed us there are 52,000 of the little Fiat taxis in the city.

3. Despite the chaos of traffic and the number of bodies, people are orderly. They are clean and well-dressed. Most men wear simple slacks and long-sleeved dress shirts, with tails out, and sandals. (Few suits/ties were spotted). The women are the peacocks here…either wearing colorful saris or punjabis (tunic, scarf and pants).

4. The Victorian buildings are unbelievably fabulous…sometimes they are hard to fully see behind the trees (the city is actually quite green; in fact you seem little shrubs growing out of the cracks in buildings everywhere.) These buildings, built by the British between 1857 and 1948, are really quite grand and well-preserved. Most are still in use today and they give a very distinctive look to Bombay, particularly around the harbor.

5. The lack of skyscrapers. Land in Mumbai is precious and expensive, therefore, as derelict buildings are torn down, residential skyscrapers are replacing them…but ever so slowly. At least for now, Mumbai is a low-rise city which makes it more authentic.

6. There are many special places to visit here. Our favorite today was the Mani Bhavan house, which is now a museum celebrating the life and accomplishments of Mahatma Gandhi. This three-story building contains many pictures of Ghandhi, a library of books about him and a diorama of his life. It is quite moving and you take away the desire learn more about Gandhi. Hence, we bought a book of his reflections on life. It is open all days of the week from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. It is located at 19, Laburnum Road, Gamdevi, Mumbai. www.gandhi-manibhavan.org.

Traffic is chaotic in Mumbai

7. Shopping. I rather eschewed shopping in Dubai and in Oman because almost everything we saw there was made in India. But today I was a bit stymied because I could not quite figure out where to buy the things I wanted. They did take us to a major shopping street — Colaba Causeway, near the Taj Hotel — and there the CIE stores seemed to be the best bet. These stores sell high quality handcrafts from around the country at set prices. If you are not eager to haggle for a rug or a sari to bring home, this might be your best choice. There are a few stalls in the cruise terminal if you are interested in some small souvenirs. I have decided to wait for Mangalore and Cochin.

8. If this is your first visit to the city, then a ship’s tour may be indeed your best choice. We talked to several people who hired local taxis for their touring (generally a good practice) and they were disappointed. They found their drivers surly, disinterested and mostly intent on getting extra money. Our 4-1/2 hour tour cost $59 and hit all of the city highlights. If you do want to tour on your own, I suggest you research online in advance to find a reliable guide who is recommended by others. There are many online forums with this information.

9. We visited the Taj Majal Hotel which is near the Gateway to India monument, the city’s most famous landmark. This huge stone gate was they entry point for passengers arriving on P&O steamers from England and many stayed at the luxurious Taj, which has old and new wings. When visiting the garden of this hotel, you can just picture what it was like when the British Raj was in control.

Living tight in Mumbai

10. We also walked through the Crawford Market. Built in 1871, the architecture blends Flemish and Norman styles and is reminiscent of Victorian England. (I am sure the smells were as bad then, too.) The market was jammed with stalls and strewn with garbage in many aisles. So, while I usually love visiting markets, this one was not so pleasant.

These are just some highlights. There are many more fascinating facts, like:

• You’ve heard of Bollywood? It’s here, the world’s largest movie industry, producing over 1,000 films a year, most of them in Hindu.

• More than half of India’s trade is conducted from the Port of Mumbai and it pays 40 percent of the country’s income taxes.

• They have McDonald’s here, of course, by they do not serve beef. They sell veggie burgers and chickens. Hindus still worship the cow and 80 percent of Indians are Hindu.

• It is the country’s financial and commercial center, while New Delhi is the political capital.

• Its name was changed from Bombay to Mumbai in 1995, because Bombay was the name that the British gave the country. The locals still call it Bombay.

It is considered the trendiest and most “Western” of India’s major cities.

To learn more, go to www.incredibleindia.org.

Next: Let’s talk about the Seabourn Spirit

We have been traveling for ten days now on the Seabourn Spirit, and mostly I have been writing about the fascinating ports we have visited.

So, let’s talk about the ship. The Spirit is one of three small ships that Seabourn owns (the others are the Seabourn Legend and Seabourn Pride ), along with its two new larger ships, the Seabourn Odyssey and Seabourn Sojourn. The new Seabourn Quest is being introduced next year. Together, these are promoted as “The Yachts of Seabourn.”

Seabourn is regarded as one of the ultra-luxury lines, usually grouped with companies such as Silversea and the Sea Dream Yacht Club. (Regent Seven Seas Cruises is also working its way into this category). But for a very long time, the name Seabourn has been synonymous with the best.

So, what makes a Seabourn cruise so special?

They are small. First, the ships are small and intimate. As hotel manager Joerg Grossmann explains it, “They just can’t afford to build ships like this anymore.” This ship carries just slightly over 200 passengers so passengers get to know one another very quickly, if not personally, at least by sight.

All cabins are mini-suites. This ship is actually very egalitarian. All cabins are small suites and all are exactly alike, except for a very few larger “real” suites. The only difference is what deck your cabin is on. There is a sitting area with a sofa, two chairs and a table, a bedroom area with a king/two twins bed (and this is a real king, not the typical queen found on most ships) and a dressing table. There is a walk-in closet. The marble bathroom features two sinks and a bathtub/shower. There is adequate storage space. Each is 277 square feet.

The cruise is all-inclusive. All drinks – alcohol, wine, beer, soft drinks, etc. – are included. Wine is served at lunch and dinner. There is a small fridge in each cabin and it is kept stocked with whatever you desire…in our case, chardonnay for me and Glenlivet scotch for Chet. There is also fresh fruit and flowers in every cabin.

The staff is fabulous. At a staff-passenger ratio of about 1:1 there is always someone to take care of your every need. Many staff will learn your name within a few days and the bartenders are soon pouring your favorite drinks without your even ordering. Today at lunch, Heidi brought us two chardonnays, an iced tea and ice water without our asking. That feels very special.

Entertainment is pretty low-key. Not everyone would appreciate this, but we are mostly entertained by a dance band, a guitar player and a pianist. There are also guest performers who stay on board for a few days. We first had a pianist and a magician (both quite good) and tonight we have a show by a flutist.

Activities are limited. There are not many planned activities on board, and most are on sea days. There are two guest lecturers, one is a historian and the other a specialist in government intelligence. There is also a bridge teacher and she runs morning and afternoon sessions on sea days. Many people form teams for the daily trivia contest and a regular group shows up for the putting contest as well. Some visit the fitness center regularly and others take advantage of the spa (very pricey). Otherwise, the library gets a big workout…everyone seems engrossed in a book. Days at sea, in general, are very leisurely.

Seabourn sails longer and quite exotic itineraries. While Seabourn does seem to be offering more seven-day sailings, it is known for its longer trips…this trip is 21 days. And the itineraries don’t generally repeat, so it is quite common for guests to sail back-to-back, putting two sailings together. While the majority of us on this trip boarded in Dubai on Nov. 30, quite a few have sailed on the ship since they boarded in Rome about ten days earlier.

The passenger mix is very international. Possibly, because this cruise is considered exotic and visits both Arabia and Southeast Asia, the number of different nationalities is even greater. According to the passenger list, we have 44 from the US, 38 from Australia, 30 from the UK, 16 from Germany, 14 from Canada, 9 from Mexico and the rest are from Argentina, Austria, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, France, Malaysia, Netherlands, Norway and New Zealand. Now that is a mix! We meet new people every day!

For more information, visit www. Seabourn.com.

Breaking open the cashew nuts

Many of the people on our cruise had already been to India, but most had visited the “Golden Triangle” in the North – New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur – where the iconic Taj Mahal is located.

Few of them had been to the Southern tip of India, where we made our last two cruise stops. First, on Dec. 8, we visited Mangalore. Overall, this port was fairly unremarkable except for our visit to the Achal cashew factory. Mangalore imports unprocessed cashew nuts from neighboring countries and then exports the processed nuts.

Almost all of the laborers are women. For many, it is a second job and child care is provided free to all. The unshelled cashews are first dried in the sun and then soaked in water to soften the shells. Then they are conveyed into the processing plant where the women remove the shells…first, by running the nuts one by one through a foot-powered press which cracks the shell and then to a second women who removes the nutmeat from the shell by hand. This is incredibly tedious work.

Separating nutmeats from shells

Unbroken whole nuts have the most value. These are roasted in ovens and then go to a second set of women processor who remove the skins by hand. The nuts are then sorted by size, packaged and readied for sale.

Broken nutmeats are also used, most in commercial baking…they are sorted by size and then roasted as well and sold in bulk. The discarded shells also have numerous uses so all parts of the cut are used.

The plant was very clean. All of the women wore uniforms, had their hair covered with nets and wore gloves. They are paid by the amount of nuts they process, roughly $4 a day. Our guide explained that it is not easy to find factory workers because the literacy rate in Mangalore is very high and most people expect better jobs.

Gokarnath temple fountain

After the cashew plant, we visited two Hindu temples, one very old and one very new…the Gokarnath temple had a beautiful, very high fountain which was something different than we had seen elsewhere.

Our last port to visit in India was the seaside city of Cochin (also known as Kochi) on Dec. 9. Here again we booked a ship’s tour, which first took us on a boat tour around the Cochin harbor where we were able to get a close look at the famed Chinese fishing nets which flank the mouth of the harbor. Then we went to the Taj Malabar Hotel where we were given an exhibition of the ancient dance form of Kathakali. This is a most unusual form of dance where facial expression and elaborate masks tell elaborate stories. I must admit that I would never have learned about Kathakali had it not been for that tour.

After that, I joined a few others on what I like to call our Cochin shopping adventure. Jim and Amy Telford and Pat Watt and I decided to catch a taxi from the Taj Malabar to a nearby shopping district. After dickering with a taxi driver, we road to Bazar Road for $5 US.

Chinese fishing nets of Cochin

When we reached Bazar Road, we discovered that the types of shops we were looking for — we wanted to buy some Indian clothing — were not there. We asked a shopgirl where her punjabi (tunic, pants, scarf outfit) came from and she directed us to Palace Road. So we hired a “tuk-tuk,” which is a three-wheeled trishaw, stuffed ourselves into it and off to Palace Road we went, this time for $1 each.

At Palace Road we had a lively time buying all sorts of fun clothing (the ship was having a Bollywood party that night) including tops, pants, scarves, jewelry, bangles and even a long shirt for Jim. I managed to find a chemist and secured some more drugs for the head colds that Chet and I are still fighting. We dodged bikes, motorbikes, trishaws, cars, goats and cows on the narrow commercial road. It was great fun and great photos…and Jim was so patient!

Kathakali dancer

Pat with some of her loot

But, no, we weren’t finished. We figured we had one more hour before we had to head back to the ship so we decided to go to the “department store” that we knew was on our way back. We hired another tuk-tuk and he agreed to wait for us at the store and take us back to the ship, all for $5. It took us several stops to find the exact store, but we finally did. It was an elaborate retail shop that sold higher quality items at much higher prices. Pat did particularly well here, buying several bronze elephants, a couple of dolls and a wonderful designer top.

We piled back into our waiting tuk-tuk and headed to the pier. All on board was 4:30 p.m. and we arrived at 4:15…and, yes, Chet was waiting and worried. We were tired, dirty, grimy and hot but we had had a wonderful afternoon.

These three stops in India have been a wonderful look at one of the world’s most fascinating places. I will come back and now know it will be even easier to tour here than I thought because so many people speak English. There are many lovely hotels and it is easy to get around. Yes, to be sure, it is dirty, dusty, crowded and in some areas there is poverty to the extreme. But there is also much joy and beauty here, waiting to be discovered.

On this 20-day itinerary on the Seabourn Spirit, we will have had 10 days at sea. Today is No. 9 sea day. Tomorrow is our last sea day…sigh.

People often ask us what people do on sea days. How do they pass the time?

Spa ready for the Pamper Party

Chet and I discovered long ago that we both love sea days. We love the fact that there is absolutely nothing that we have to do (that IS the meaning of vacation, isn’t it?) We can get up late, read, nap, go to the spa or participate in the various on-board activities.

Today, I chose to partake in a spa special called the Pamper Party. Six of us participated in this two-hour event that was well worth the $89 charged. We each had a petite facial, a hair and scalp treatment and massage, a “tired feet” massage and a 10-minute back massage.

They provided drinks (wine, vodka and water) and fruit snacks. They provided a luscious exfoliating rub to use in the shower and extra face creams after our facials. It really was a morning of pampering and it was great to see all of the spa staff happily involved.

Enjoying a scalp treatment

After a quick shower, makeup and hair dry I managed to make it to the Team Trivia competition. This, too, goes on every day at sea but we just formed our team yesterday, appropriately named “The Latecomers.” We are Peter, Paul, June, June, Jim, Chet and Cindy. We may not be doing the best, but we do think we are having the best fun. Today’s stumper: What is a group of jellyfish called?

There are other regular events. Bridge is offered every morning and afternoon on sea days and there is a dedicated group playing there. While I really enjoyed Ann’s lessons, I discovered that I really did not want to play every morning and afternoon. They also have frequent putting contests and sometimes Baggo is offered (also known as cornhole).

Today there was a cooking lesson (curry and crème brulee, I am told) and there is usually one or two lectures by our on-board speakers. Today Glenmore Trenear-Harvey will speak on “The Spy in the Sky.” Being Sunday, there was also a non-denominational church service.

What you won’t find on Seabourn: Bingo, pool games, photographers, frequent loud-speaker announcements. Everything is very low key.

Tomorrow is our last day at sea and then six days in port…so we are going to cherish every precious moment of our quiet day tomorrow.

Answer: A “smack” of jellyfish. Who knew? (If you knew, you can be a trivia champ!)

Today is the final day at sea on this Seabourn Spirit cruise. This is our eighth day at sea on this 20-day cruise and everyone I talk to is regretting it. We have all come to love these sea days, maybe because it is on these days that we really get to know one another.

Our trivia team

For example, today our Trivia Team, “The Latecomers” finally gathered a full complement of 10 players…Peter, Jim, Chet, June, Tony, Jenny, June, Cindy, Paul and Monica. In the end, we ended up third of the five teams! A respectable showing, considering we just got together a few days ago. But now we all know one another and this has been great fun. Today’s stumper: Which island in the Canary Islands flies the flag of Scotland?

Right after Trivia we all headed down to Deck Three for a food extravaganza called the Galley Market Lunch. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why Seabourn is pulling out the “food stops” on this luncheon rather late in the cruise. This is the best food we have seen the entire trip and I gather that this lunch is done on all Seabourn cruises.

They served luscious raclette

You pass through line into the galley…you are first offered a chilled vodka (many varieties, cleverly chilled in real ice buckets) Then you move on to a very authentic Swiss raclette…the hot swiss cheese on bread with appropriate accompaniments: boiled potatoes, gherkins, pickled onions, proscuitto and sliced sausage. Yum! This may be the single best dish I have had on the cruise.

Then there is a big sushi spread…where has this been for the past 10 days? Then lots more salads and seafoods, a pasta bar, cold salmon, hot salmon, sliced prime rib, slice turkey, soup and all the accompaniments. Oh yes, there were fried soft shell crabs, chips (french fries) and many other goodies. All at once and all for lunch!

Fresh sushi captured many's fancy

Then, of course, the dessert table which included everything from Cherries Jubilee to Baked Alaska. Is this overkill? Yes, absolutely.

While most everyone loved it, we all agreed we would rather see it spread out a bit. On days at sea and many other days when we sail at 1 or 2 p.m., there is little to do around 5-6 p.m. One day on this cruise they had a fun caviar event on the Sea Deck. Wouldn’t it be fun to see a few more of these…perhaps a raclette one day, sushi another day, creative pizzas another day, a huge fresh-cooked salmon another day? It just seems we would be able to enjoy it so much more!

Dinner at the alternative restaurant “2”

The Tastings menu at Restaurant 2

It is all the rage these days for ships to offer alternative dining and Seabourn has followed that trend by offering special dinners in its Veranda Café in the evening, renamed “2.”  Each evening some 40 people are served very special meals. Most are themed…like Indian, Spanish, Thai, Trattoria and Asiate. Some evenings they offer special dinners called Tastings, where the whole menu is set and you are served small plates for all courses.

Being new to Seabourn, there was something that we did not realize right away: It is extremely hard to get a reservation for “2.” You have to be in line or call 48 hours in advance to get one of the cherished spot. Not only is the food good in “2,” but you are able to dine al fresco (outside) on the aft of the ship and it is a lovely evening experience. (Unfortunately, the main restaurant on this ship is located on Deck 3 and is dark in the evenings.)

Waitress Leigh, Jim Telford at "2"

But last night we lucked out and about 6:15 p.m. we received a call from “2” telling us they had a cancellation and did we want to come for the Tastings dinner? We grabbed the chance…Chet was eager to get out of his tuxedo (only a jacket is required in “2”)…and we joined Jim and Amy Telford for a lovely time. The whole experience was grand and we recommend it. There is no surcharge for this restaurant on Seabourn.

Today’s putting contest results

Today we joined a gang on deck for a golf putting contest. This is definitely a more-luck-than-skill endeavor but I am proud to announce that Chet won for the men today! I did not do so well.

Chet's prize in the putting contest

Tomorrow we reach Thailand and then have five days visiting Malaysia before we end in Singapore.