On historic Blake Pier in Hong Kong

AAH…After four days of exploring Hong Kong, I can’t think of a better way to end the day—or a more unusual way to end Christmas afternoon.

Of course in Hong Kong, there are reflexology shops; it seems, on every street. Employees hand out brochures in the street and prices vary widely from $10 to over $100. Our guide has suggested this shop where for just $30 our feet are first soaked in lavender and then in a quiet room, we lay back on a comfortable chair while a smiling woman massages our feet and legs.

This started years ago as part of Chinese medicine, our guide Wing Lau explains, but has evolved into an affordable spa experience that “99 per cent of tourists” enjoy—locals too. I’d recommend it in any city sales where you are walking around a lot!

What a strange Christmas. We started the day at Hong Kong’s famous Stanley Market—about 100 small shops and stalls that cater to tourists selling everything from your name spelled out in Chinese Calligraphy and chopsticks to silk scarves, fine linens—all near the South China Sea. Along the promenade are restaurants serving every variety of Western cuisine and because it is Sunday, the road along the waterfront is blocked to traffic and tables are set up outside.

You only know it is Christmas because all of those walking their dogs have dressed them up in Christmas outfits and hats and the servers sport reindeer ears and tiny Santa Hats. It is relaxed and beautiful—a far cry from the frenetic Ladies Market or the crowded shops the night before in the city. There are more than 20 restaurants here mostly serving Western cuisine—burgers and sea food and chicken which is why we see more Caucasian faces in one place than I’ve seen anywhere else in Hong Kong. It feels almost like we should be in Europe rather than Asia.

We stroll out on historic Blake Pier –the roof is more than a century old and was moved here in 2004–and watch the bobbing rowboats, the traditional Chinese Junk that serves as a harbor cruise and the wind surfers out on a Sunday.

I’m glad for a western lunch at Rock Salt overlooking the water which sports an Australian menu (Kangaroo anyone?) We opt for chicken instead, watching the locals walk their dogs along the promenade in the sunshine.

Being on the Stanley Promenade makes me realize yet again how many faces and facets there are to Hong Kong. We stop in before dinner to the Inter Continental Hotel for a drink—but really for the view.

There is a light show over the harbor as the buildings flash Merry Christmas, 2012 in green and red and white lights. Middle schoolers are singing carols in the lobby—as we’d left our hotel—The Mira—another group was singing. Apparently they make a circuit entertaining the locals and the tourists.

The view is spectacular—post card worthy, especially with all the holiday nights. What a way to end Christmas.

Sailing To Byzantium From Istanbul to Vienna on the Aegean Odyssey (PDF)

Artisinal cheeses- Image courtesy of Crystal Cruises

Crystal Cruises, well known for their exemplary dining venues and cuisine options (due in large part to Executive Chef Nobu Matsuhisa- who by the way will be on one of their cruises this spring) is expanding one of its most popular venue’s evening hours.

The Bistro, with European-style sidewalk café ambiance, will offer “small bites,” desserts, and “midnight” snacks, along with premium wines and flavored coffees.  The new nightly café will debut in April on Crystal Symphony and June on Crystal Serenity, right after the ships go all-inclusive.

The Bistro is a popular venue for cruisers due to its central location and quick, easy access to continental breakfast, fresh fruits, afternoon snacks, and wide selection of teas and coffee drinks, from morning to late afternoon.

Here’s what guests of the line can expect:

•  6-8 pm: Charcuterie of cured meats, prosciuttos, and pâtés, plus international cheeses paired with premium wines and champagne.
• 8-11 pm: Artisanal cheeses, with complementary accompaniments such as truffle honey and fig chutney, plus an assortment of fresh fruits and desserts, including a chocolate fountain and petit fours handmade by onboard pastry chefs, with fine wines, digestifs, and hot drinks.
• 11 pm-12 am: Late-night munchies such as mini-sandwiches, freshly-baked pizzas, quiche, tandoori chicken, and trendy beef “sliders.”

A perfect solution for those who like a little late-night fare.

Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa courtesy of Crystal Cruises

One of my favorite indulgences while cruising is fine dining… and the cruise line have some of the best cuisine to be found- both at sea and on land.  This is due in great part to the effort they put into recruiting the best chefs, as demonstrated by the fact that  Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa will be aboard Crystal Serenity in May as Executive Chef in Silk Road and the Sushi Bar, his specialty restaurants with Crystal Cruises.

Foodies will be delighted to hear that world-renown Japanese chef plans to give cooking instructions, personally prepare dishes, take pictures with guests, and sign autographs during a 12-day western European/Mediterranean voyage departing May 24.

Oceania reports that the chef will provide the following opportunities for guests on that cruise:

• Nightly appearances and guest mingling in Silk Road and the Sushi Bar
• Special add-on “Omakase” dinner, with sake and sake champagne pairings chosen by Sake Master Fumio Hazu, the man behind Nobu’s exclusive “living” Hokosetsu sake, plus explanations of each course by both.
• Intimate hands-on cooking class in Crystal’s kitchen for 10-12 guests
• Cooking demonstration for all guests
• Autograph signings of “NOBU’S Vegetarian Cookbook” and “NOBU the Cookbook”
• Photo opportunities
• Sake tasting with Japanese hors d’oeuvres, hosted by Mr. Hazu

Chef Matsuhisa’s Japanese-Peruvian fusion has been served on board the Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity since 2003 and 2008, respectively.  His role with Crystal is to personally train all chefs, design all menus, and make ship visits for ongoing improvement of the program.

In addition to Chef Matsuhisa, Chef Heinz Beck (of Rome’s three Michelin Star La Pergola), Mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim, and Master Sommelier Bob Bath are also scheduled to host tastings and demonstrations during the May 24 “Wine and Food”-themed cruise.  A seven-course “Ultimate Vintage Room Dinner” prepared by Beck and Bath will feature impossible-to-purchase fine wines for approximately $1,000/person.

The “Bordeaux and Beyond” sailing departs from London/Dover for Bordeaux/Bassens (overnight), Lisbon, Gibraltar, Monte Carlo (overnight), Florence/Livorno, Porto Venere, and Rome/Civitavecchia.

Highlands fences must be high enough for tortoises to crawl under

After our visit to the Los Gemelos craters, it’s back on the bus for what I hope is an exciting afternoon with giant Galapagos tortoises in the wild. Our Lindblad Endeavour naturalist for the afternoon, Walter Perez, doesn’t share my confidence as he continually cautions us “all we can guarantee you’ll see is lava rock and plenty of it.” Still, I’m optimistic we’ll find some giant tortoises without many problems.

Walter advises us how to track one of the huge tortoises in its natural environment: to walk quietly through the forest, listening closely for sounds made by an 800 lb., five-foot long reptiles as it flattens the underbrush in search for food. Fortunately, our search turns out to be incredibly easy.

After our bus turns onto a small winding dirt road and we head toward two small farm buildings in the distance, Walter excitedly points ahead of us. “Look there’s one–and there’s another! Oh boy, I can’t believe this!” Ahead of us, on both side of the road, are what look like large, clumps of rock moving through tall grass just 10 or 15 yards from us.

We quickly clamber out of the bus. Walter divides us into two groups, one to view the tortoises along the long road and the other to descend the hill behind the farm house. Tim decides to stay with the first group where he knows he can photograph tortoises. I decide to venture off with those going down the hill with Walter.

The slope is surprisingly steep but I glance in the distance to spot what look giant, gray pith helmets scattered across a field. The closer I get, the more I realize the enormity of these creatures. Santa Cruz Island with its humid, grass-rich highlands is home to the largest of all Galapagos Tortoises.

These have a domed shell and short neck unlike the tortoises in the dry lowlands with a saddleback shell and longer neck. When Charles Darwin visited the island the vice-governor told him he could tell which island a tortoise inhabited by looking at it. Darwin was astonished by this statement but as he traveled from island to island he realized the shell patterns did vary from location to location. Those distinguishing features were one of the many facets that compelled Darwin toward his theory of natural selection and adaptation.

Tortoise walks along the edge of pond.

As impressed as I am with their size, the huge tortoises are not impressed with us at all. In fact, they seem truly oblivious to our presence, continuing to eat, drink and simply wander around. Their movements are slow and deliberate and their legs, feet and toes are enormous, resembling tree trunks with huge toenails. Each toenail is approximately the size of my fist. One tortoise walking through the field reminds me of an alligator back home in Florida as it “high walks” one leg at a time over the ground.

As the tortoises shift to drink at a small pond covered with pink tiny flowers, I expect to see them drink with a cat-like behavior, lapping up the water. Instead, they barely open their lips as they gently suck in the water. The tortoises share their water hole with a several white-cheeked pintail ducks. We photographers are thrilled by the juxtaposition of the tiny ducks with the giant tortoises. We have an amazingly harmonious portrait of nature not often seen in the wild.

These feet are big!

We have only a 45-minute window to photograph the tortoises and much too soon it’s time to return to the bus. My group lingers longer than we should, trying to get that last perfect shot. I could stay here for the rest of the day watching these magnificent creatures loll about but the time crunch is sounding.

As we walk up the hill, Walter comments, “You don’t know how lucky you are!” I leave with mixed feelings: lucky to have witnessed so many tortoises with perfect sunlight but also a little sad to know I probably will never have this kind of opportunity again.

Mel and Eileen in front of giant Buddha statue in Hong Kong

Monks, I’m told, stand in this very spot to pray because there seems to be an echo.

And this isn’t just any Buddha but the largest outdoor sitting Buddha in the Po Lin Monastery on the island of Lantau. The Monastery was established in 1906—some 100 monks hidden from the tourists still live here—but the Tian Tan  Giant Buddha   -which took 10 years to build—after 20 years of planning  has only been here since 2001. It is built from 202 Bronze pieces and weighs over 250 tons. We walk up 268 steps to get a closer look. Wow!  It is huge!

We eat a Vegetarian Lunch in the monastery—hot and sour soup, spring rolls, rice, lemon bean curd called drunken chicken, stir fried veggies.

Outside people are lighting incense and praying. But what I can’t get my head around is that the merger of the commercial and the religious. Just outside the monastery is Ngong Ping 360, a little tourist village that with shops, and restaurants.

Even getting here is an adventure. We take a taxi from Kowloon (about $30 US dollars, though you could take the subway or a bus) and then board the famous Ngong Ping Cable Car for the 3.5 mile journey–it is the biggest cable car in Asia—We’re in the Crystal Car which means the bottom is clear so we can see not only North Lantau but the South China Sea and the planes lined up at the nearby airport.

Since this Cable Car was completed in 2006, this has become one of Hong Kong’s top tourist attractions—in fact when we leave, the lines stretch so long that people will be waiting for hours for the experience. (You can book tickets on line.)  As we walk through the village—yes there is a Starbucks here as well as a Subway—there are shops selling everything from stuffed pandas to chopsticks to tee shirts. People are here as much for the village as for the monastery and Buddha.

“It is a family day,” our guide says.  You can also opt for the four hour hike up rather than the half hour cable car—up winding wooden steps through the greenery. “It looks easy but it’ not,” our guide assures us.

The village isn’t cheesy—I’ve seen worse at other ruins and cultural places in the world. It is just a funny juxtaposition with people souvenir shopping and eating ice cream and then praying to the giant Buddha.  There is even a multi-media Walking with Buddha attraction that explains the life of Siddhartha Gautama, the man who became Buddha and his path to enlightenment.

We missed that and headed to the Buddha himself. Wow it’s big!  Tourists and locals are praying to him and posing for pictures in front of him. We do the same. I try to imagine trucks bringing up the pieces one ton at a time. Amazing.

But there is something else here—as touristy as this is—it is also a unique attraction and a pleasure to be out of Hong Kong’s throngs for an afternoon.  Our “Crystal” cable car seats 10 and the floor is made of a single piece of layered tempered glass-the first in the world. Crazy!

Now the monks have raised money to replace the small monastery with a much grander affair. It is being constructed behind the monastery we visit. Donations have poured in from locals, I learn.

Some people avoid the cable car entirely and hike up –up and down four mountains to get here—more than 3,000 steps!  This mountain top is over 3100 feet high—much higher than Hong Kong’s famous Victoria Peak.

“The idea is it must be hard to get to the Monastery,” our guide explains. When she was a girl, the bus only came half way up and you had to hike the rest of the way. “You have to really want to see the monastery and the Buddha,” she says. “It’s not supposed to be easy.”

I hope that’s what all of those hundreds on the line think.   “The tourists come to see the Buddha,” she says. “We come to see the monastery.”

I just wonder if my wish—the one I made to the giant Buddha—will come true.

That only begins to describe Hong Kong Christmas Eve when hundreds of thousands take to the streets—no cars are permitted in the hotel district—to shop and shop some more until two in the morning (the subways run all night). They book crazy expensive tables at hotel restaurants and move from hotel to hotel—the Peninsula to the Mira to the new Ritz—like a human wave—to pose for pictures with their families and friends by the Christmas decorations.

I have never seen such crowds—triple the worst rush hour in New York—with one big difference—everyone is happy and joking, wearing Santa hats. School Kids from the Christian churches—there are only 10 per cent Christian here—sing carols on the street. It is strange where everyone is speaking Chinese and there is rarely a Caucasian face to hear Christmas Carols in English.

At Hong Kong’s Times Square, crowds already have begun to gather by 8 p.m. for the midnight show and Countdown to Christmas with all of Hong Kong’s young trendy stars. If you think it seems more like New Years Eve, you’re right—it is—except that everyone is still shopping to the drop—from the Causeway Bay with big department stores and small local shop’s to GOD which is kind of like a Hong Kong Version of Crate and Barrel and Ikea (love the Panda PJ tops an the recycled purses and candles with double Chinese happiness) to Hong Kong’s famous Ladies’ Markets which are so jam packed our guide Wang Lau tells us to be like “sticky rice.”

My daughter Mel, who has just arrived from Thailand, pronounces things here more expensive yet clearly there are bargains to be had—but you have to bargain as the merchants raise the prices expecting you to bargain down anywhere from 30-40 per cent for “original copies” of everything from Longchamps bags to Hello Kitty merchandise (my daughter loves that—pencils and mugs and tee shirts and slippers. You name it and you can find it here on the stalls that stretch for blocks.

I buy a silk scarf (at least I think it is silk) for $15. I pick up some tiny Chinese animals to give friends—cats and pigs for $4. Mel buys a Hello Kitty thermos. I bargain the price for a small polka dotted make up kit form $18 to $8 and pickup puppets for two young cousins for the Chinese New Year.

“Everyone here comes to Ladies Market,” our guide Wing Lau tells us. “It isn’t just for tourists.”

It also isn’t for those who don’t have cash—no credit cards allowed. I pass on the “Original copies” of the designer bags and the scarves. I am on sensory overload! There are more than 5,000 small stores and 600 stalls! Each day, some 750,000 people pass through this area in the Mong Kok area of Hong Kong. The stalls are surrounded by shops—one street for shoes, one street for electronics. Want a panda scroll? Fayuen is considered the “sports street” for every variety of sports shoes Want Bath towels with Angry Birds on then? Rolling bags to carry all your treasures home?

The amazing thing is this is a moveable city—the venders set up in the morning and then pack everything away at 11 pm. The shopping is particularly frenetic, it seems, because it is Christmas Eva when Hong Kong residents want to be out shopping and eating and being seen. A good bet for foreigners—the vendors do speak English and because they’ve raised their prices’ to start with, it’s a good place to hone your bargaining skills (Start with offering half what they want and settle for between 30-40 percent of the Original price.)

This isn’t a leisurely stroll through markets as I’ve experienced elsewhere in the world. It’s more like shopping as contact sport. That’s especially true when we get to Causeway Bay and the Hotel Districts where every shop–from Jewelry Stores with glittering gems in the window to Coach and Hermes is doing brisk business—and will until 1-2 a.m.

There are shops in the subways too—nicer than I’ve seen in other subways—and people are shopping there too lured by holiday sales and also the sheer excitement of bargain hunting and the crowds.

There are packs of teens, families with babies in strollers, couples holding hands. There are many tourists but few Caucasians. The tourists, I’m told, have come from China to experience Christmas Hong Kong style.

We return to the hotel after a diner-style Chinese dinner at a local restaurant called Tai Ping Koon that has been around since the nineteenth century that specializes in western Cuisine—Asian style. We eat cream crab soup and pork curry and try pigeon (I don’t think I’ll order it again).

This is a place with simple booths and paper placemats yet every table has been booked and people are lined up outside in the case there are no-shows. Maybe they like the sweet red beans and ice cream for dessert—an acquired taste I think.

When we get back to the Mira Hotel , there is a big party going on in the courtyard that serves as the bar and gathering place. Even my 20 year-old daughter is too tired from shopping.

Clutching our purchases, we head up to our room. And fall asleep.

But instead of sugar plums, we’re dreaming of bargains.

Top to bottom: City of Metz, Luxembourg City: The Petrusse Valley

Day 1. We met our guide at 10 AM at the Paris Est train station to board a high-speed TGV train bound for Metz, founded 3,000 years ago by the Gallic tribe of Mediomatrici from which it derives its name. The Old Town is grouped around arcaded Place St-Louis with its characteristic stone-buttressed houses from the 14^th to 16^th century. It’s a quite charming city and is famous for its yellow limestone architecture, due to the extensive use of the Jaumont stone.

In fact, Metz is home to a mishmash of architectural layers, witnessing its millennium history at the crossroad of different cultures. Thus, from its Gallo-Roman past, the city conserves vestiges of the thermae (in the basement of Metz’s museums), parts of an aqueduct, and Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains basilica. The Saint-Louis square with its arcades, where currency changers gathered, remains a major symbol of the High Medieval heritage of the city, as well as a Knights Templar chapel. The Gothic cathedral, several churches and Hôtels, and two remarkable municipal granaries reflect the Late Middle Ages.

Next, we traveled by motor coach to Luxembourg, where we had a tour of the capital of the Grand Duchy.  One of the smallest countries in the world, Luxembourg is also the world’s only grand duchy. The Capitol, Luxembourg City, was built in a spectacular location, on a high rocky bluff rising steeply from the gorges carved out of the rivers Alzette and Petrusse.

Less than half a million people live in this tiny, prosperous nation, which is landlocked and bordered by Belgium, France, and Germany. The national language is Luxembourgian (a German dialect), but French and German are also officially used.

This visit was followed by a drive to see the American Cemetery and Memorial, resting place of Gen. George S. Patton Jr. The rows of white stone crosses and Star of David headstones create a somber remembrance of the World War II battles fought in the area.

While walking through the cemetery I noticed that small pebbles had be placed on the headstones of some of the graves, especially that of General Patton. These pebbles represent the Jewish tradition of leaving a pebble or stone on top of a headstone to signify that someone has honored the deceased person’s memory with a visit to the grave. A poignant act of remembrance.

In the late afternoon we arrived in the small river town of Remich, Luxembourg, to board our ship, the MS AmaDante.  My first impression of the AmaDante is that she does not look like a traditional cruise ship. She has three decks, of which the top two offer large floor to ceiling sliding glass doors for each cabin, each with French Balconies. These balconies are simple railings about half way up the window casings which allow passengers to completely open their individual sliding doors in safety while observing the passing scenery. The ship is a little boxy in appearance and is wide and low. Once underway it becomes apparent that the ship has been constructed to maximize its size yet pass under the low bridges of the region, and through the narrow locks. She has a modern first rate look, and appears to be scrupulously maintained.

Going on board one is met in a well-appointed reception area by a smiling, courteous, uniformed staff; clearly eager to please.

Guests were then shown to their cabins which were, again, tastefully decorated. Cabins were inclusive of the expected mirrors (to give the allusion of spaciousness), ample closet space, a monitor which provided access to television, selected on board movies and internet service, a safe, white terry cloth robes and slippers, two club chairs and bedside tables with reading lamps, individual temperature control, and a nice carpet is underfoot. Bottled water was delivered every day. The marble and fully tiled bathroom was spotless, and offered a modern shower compartment with multiple shower heads, a hair dryer, and a nice assortment of toiletries. The water pressure was excellent and hot water abundant.

Top to bottom: Gen. Patton’s Grave, American Cemetery and Memorial, Pebbles on headstones

The cabins’ focal point is the floor to ceiling sliding glass doors that provide excellent views of the surrounding countryside, castles, and villages along the river bank, and can be viewed from the club chairs or while lying in bed. These sliding doors are far superior to other ships on the river as, unlike their fixed smaller windows, the AmaDante windows offer not only better views, but can be opened to let in fresh air. These windows are available on all decks except the Piano, which has smaller, fixed windows. Such cabins are, however, less expensive, and have all the features of other cabins. Jr. Suites, on the Violin Deck, are 255 sq. ft. and include a larger seating area and bath.

Although limited room service is provided on board, I could find no notice of such in my cabin or a room service menu. I only found out about its availability while lamenting its absence to an AMA Waterways execution on board the last night of the cruise. I would certainly have used it, at least for AM coffee and croissants, had I known.

Following a short time to unpack, guests were invited to a “Welcome Aboard” wine reception during which the ship’s captain introduced key crew members and reviewed ship policies and safety procedures.  The captain humorously explained that if the ship sunk entirely, the Sun Deck would still be above water due to the rivers shallow depth; to the obvious relief of some.  We then adjourned to dinner in the well-appointed dining room.

The overall impression one gets is that of comfort, elegance, and attentive, professional service. The lines owners and crew clearly know that one only gets one chance of making a first impression.

Day Two. The nighttime experience aboard was quite good. The beds are comfortable, and the individual heating and air conditioning system allows for a personal temperature selection. The bed pillows are hypoallergenic cut foam and a little stiff for my taste as I prefer feather or down, but not so uncomfortable as to interfere with my sleep. The ship glides silently throughout the night with no engine noise or shuddering.

We began the day with breakfast in the ships dining room, which consisted of a breakfast buffet or several offerings from the menu served on white table cloths. I had a made to order omelet, sausage, two excellent croissants, fresh fruit and coffee. A very nice meal served by an attentive waiter.

During the morning and early afternoon the ship cruised along the Mosel toward the German city of Bernkastle. The views along the way were lovely, consisting of fall colors along the riverbank and surrounding hills and the occasional castle or village.

Just prior to lunch guests were treated to the first of many interesting wine lectures by Christopher Silva of the St. Francis Winery in Sonoma Valley, California, christened after St. Francis of Assisi in recognition of St. Francis’ role as patron saint and protector of animals and ecology in the natural world.

In mid afternoon we arrived in Bernkastle with its two and three story Medieval “Half Timber’ homes. The houses are smaller at street level and progressively get larger and higher because their inhabitants were required to pay taxes calculated by the ground space each house covers.

Five guides were available for walking tours of the village that including a wine tasting event at the Bergweiler Winery.  We sampled four fragrant wines from their Riesling and Pinot Noir collection in the Dr. Paulys Probier- und Studierkeller charming tasting room, along with an informative lecture.

This evening we were served a German themed dinner paired with select wines from the St. Francis Winery. Wines served are as follows:

Top to bottom: My Cabin – Violin Deck, Jr. Suite – Violin Deck, Fixed Window Cabin – Piano Deck

My menu selection was Marinated Salmon Trout and Scallops with carrots, cucumber and sour cream sauce; Cream of Pumpkin Soup with roasted seeds; thinly sliced Venison Loin crusted with hazelnut crust with black currant-grape sauce, brussels sprouts, carrots and macaire potato’s; Lukewarm cheese cake with forest berry ragout and crème brule ice cream. This, followed by an excellent selection of cheeses. As always, plate presentation was excellent.

After dinner, we enjoyed La Strada, a group of Belgian musicians that entertained us with “light” classical music.

The three La Strada musicians played the guitar, cello and violin with a remarkable level of skill that kept the passengers in rapt attention. Kudos to whoever brought them on board.

Day 3.  This morning at 10:30 AM passengers were offered a German Fruhschoppen (morning pint) with beer and sausages in the lounge.  Fruhschoppen comes from a German tradition that after Sunday church the men would head to the bars to drink schnapps and the women went home to make a big lunch. It was a very lively affair for a morning activity. Although a little early for drinking beer in my estimation, many other passengers disagreed and hoisted their glasses.

Following Fruhschoppen we were treated to another wine lecture by Christopher Silva of the St. Francis Winery. The lecture, entitled “Sonoma vs. the World”, was accompanied with a comparative tasting of 3 Chardonnay wines. A busy morning for alcohol indeed.

This afternoon we docket right next to the wine town of Zell, home town of ‘Zeller Schwarze Katz’ wine. Zell is located on the impressive Zeller Hamm river bow of the Mosel, and is one of Germany’s most beautiful and diverse wine regions.

The village itself, deep in the Mosel Valley, has narrow alleyways, centuries-old historic framework houses with steep gables, romantic village squares with ornate fountains, Gothic, Baroque and modern churches that are all appealing cultural sights well worth seeing.

This evening a musician from Zell greeted us as we disembarked the ship leading passengers through the town center to the Cellars of City Hall, across from the cities “Black Kat” statue, for a special event hosted by the city’s mayor and Wine Queen. Several local top vintners introduced us to the regions viticulture with free-flowing Black Kat wine and numerous regional dishes.

Having experienced all the wine I could take in one day, I returned to the ship, and my cabin, to find the nightly chocolates on my pillow from house keepings turn down service. Others with voracious appetites and better bladders than mine remained in Zell until the ships “All Aboard”!! call at 1:45 AM.

Panorama of Cochem with the Cochem Imperial Castle on the right side

Day 4. After a night sailing we awoke to find ourselves docked in the village of Cochem, dominated by the Reichsburg Castle.

Tucked tight along the riverside with just under 5,000 inhabitants, Cochem was settled early in Celtic and Roman times and is probably the most visited village along the Mosel River.

With only a few hours to visit Cochem, both bike and walking tours left the ship at 9 AM, which included a minivan ride up to the Imperial Castle. I noted that some of the revelers from the night before did not seem the worse for wear.

Top to bottom: Fall on the Mosel, Half Timber Homes of Bernkastle

A word about Micro Climates. A microclimate is the climate of a small area that is different from the area around it. It may be warmer or colder, wetter or drier, or more or less prone to frosts. In the case of the small villages along the section of the Mosel we recently traversed, it’s colder. These villages are snugly fit along the Mosel’s bank, several hundred feet below the surrounding bluff peaks, and the temperatures plunged to just above freezing, especially at night. Due to this fact, you are well advised to bring along some clothes that allow you to “layer” during this part of the voyage. As we turned onto the flatter countryside surrounding the Rhine at Koblenz, the temperature warmed again.

Each day when returning from our tours and walks about the cold Mosel villages we were greeted on board by a staff member offering warm towels and Glühwein or tea. Glühwein is popular in German-speaking countries and the region of Alsace in France. It is the traditional beverage offered and drunk during the Christmas holidays. It is usually prepared from red wine, heated and spiced with cinnamon sticks, vanilla pods, cloves, citrus and sugar. A very nice touch on a cold day.

We sailed for Koblenz at 12:30 PM and went to lunch, eating while looking out the dining room windows as the scenic vistas of the Mosel slowly passed by. The fall colors of the vineyards and passing trees were a beautiful mottled yellow and orange. This is a lovely and gracious way to travel.

Just prior to dinner we received another lecture by Christopher Silva for a wine blending demonstration. He is a wealth of knowledge, and is slowly educating us about the art of winemaking and introducing our pallets to his personal wine selections.

After dinner the ship arrived in the city of Koblenz, and docked near the city’s old town. Koblenz is much larger than any of our previous stops with a population of 115,000, and located at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers. This spot is dominated by the largest fortress situated anywhere along the Rhine, the immense Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. Built over 1000 years ago, the fortress now houses several museums and is gloriously lighted in the evening.

Some of us went for an evening stroll along the river winding up at the huge monument dedicated to Kaiser Wilhelm I, located at the “Deutsches Eck” or “German Corner” park, exactly at the two rivers confluence. The tip of the park is shaped like a ship’s prow, overlooked by an enormous equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm mounted on an equally-huge stone base that you can climb for a great view of the rivers and opposite shore where the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is situated.

The Wine Cellars of City Hall

Day 5. This morning we boarded a motorcoach to take us on a day boat trip of the Rhine Gorge. The Upper Middle Rhine Valley is one of the most magnificent and oldest cultural landscapes in Europe. This section of the Rhine, between the old Roman town of Koblenz and the towns of Bingen and Rüdesheim, were included on the list of world heritage sites in the year 2002 by UNESCO.  It is hard to find something similar in Europe. The exceptional views of around 40 castles, mansions and fortresses between Koblenz and Bingen make this a highlight of the cruise and is not to be missed.

We arrived back on board the ship in the late afternoon to find that the dining room was preparing a Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Dinner for that evening. The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1248. It is devoted to preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts. Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of meat roasters. Revived in 1950, the society has professional and amateur members in more than 70 countries worldwide.

The meal prepared by our chef was French, and was so extraordinary that I have included it for your review.

Top to botttom: Koblenz- Ehrenbreitstein Fortress at night, Old Town

Each course was beautifully presented and served, as usual. This, dear readers, is no time to be on a diet.

Later, in the ships lounge, a musical group performed for listening and dancing. At three AM the AmaDante departed for Cologne.

The Upper Middle Rhine Valley

Day 6.  This morning we arrived in Cologne, which is located on both sides of the Rhine River, and is Germany’s fourth largest city. Our time in Cologne is short, so we opted for a walking tour through the old part of the city, visiting its legendary 13th-century Gothic cathedral, seat of the Catholic Archbishop of Cologne. It is an absolute stunning structure started in 1248, and completed in 1880. In 1996, it was designated a World Heritage site.

We also enjoyed a tasting of Kölsch Beer at the Früh Brewery. Like the name “Champagne” in France, the name “Kölsch” is protected by law so that only beers brewed in and around Cologne can use the name. Its taste is somewhat sweet and subtle in flavor, and served in a rod style glass.

Others took a guided bike tour of Cologne with the Früh Brewery their last stop for obvious reasons. This afternoon, the ship departed Cologne and cruised toward Amsterdam.

This evening we attended the Captain’s Wine Dinner. Although it was suggested that male passengers wear coats, few did, preferring to dress in nice but more casual clothes. The evenings wine selections were provided by the St. Francis Winery. We chose to sit at a two top table up against a banquette and were pleased with the small restaurant feel that it gave us. We were grateful for the thoughtfulness of the restaurants design. As usual there was the nice assortment of appetizers, soups, entrees and desserts.  I have become very fond of the selection of international cheeses offered every evening, and intend to add them to my home menu upon return.

Top to bottom: Amersterdam Coffee Shop and Red Light District

Day 7.  Sex, Drugs & Rock and Roll. We arrived in contrary Amsterdam this morning with its legal prostitution and Marijuana with the contradictory backdrop of interesting architecture, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh museum, and the Ann Frank House. Amsterdam is a very open and tolerant city with a diverse population

We began our day with a scenic canal cruise through Amsterdam, sometimes referred to as the “Venice of the North.” Canals encircle Amsterdam’s city center, and a canal cruise provides a good vantage point for admiring the beautiful buildings and merchant homes that line the water. We saw the fabled Skinny Bridge, and the famous Anne Frank House. Afterwards, we went on a panoramic motor coach tour of Amsterdam, in which we saw its most famous landmarks, including the Royal Palace and a photo stop at the Rembrandt Windmill.

Following our motor coach tour we had free time to explore the city on foot, looking for some of the more infamous aspects of the city. We quickly stumbled upon a number of “Coffeeshops” with clouds of marijuana smoke wafting into the street. Coffeeshops in Amsterdam are not where one goes for a soothing cup of Starbucks, but establishments in the Netherlands where the sale of cannabis for personal consumption by the public is tolerated by the local authorities.

Under the drug policy of the Netherlands, the sale of cannabis products in small quantities is allowed by ‘licensed’ coffee shops. The majority of these “coffeeshops” (in Dutch written as one word) also serve drinks and food. Coffeeshops are not allowed to serve alcohol (although in the past some coffeeshops in central Amsterdam have transgressed this law without reproach)or other drugs, and risk closure if they are found to be selling soft drugs to minors, or hard drugs. The idea of coffeeshops was introduced in the 1970′s for the explicit purpose of keeping hard and soft drugs separated.

We went in one, of course, and received instruction on the many varieties offered by strength or promised effect. For about two Euros one can purchase a “joint”, with or without tobacco included, with names such as Bubblicious and White Rhino, and then can sit outside in the sunlight and fresh air or inside contemplating 60’s style wall murals and recordings of Frank Zappa. We chose…ah, never mind.

Later we walked through Amsterdam’s “Red Light District”, where prostitution is legal. From brothels to sex shops to sex shows, the Red Light District leaves little to the imagination. The Rossebuurt, as the locals know it, is where women of many nationalities parade their wares in red-fringed window parlors. Another familiar image of the Red Light District is of packs of men, young and old, couples holding hands and pointing in shock of it all, giggling groups of women, and busloads of Japanese tourists toting cameras.

Perhaps what few really notice is that the Rosseburt (Dutch for ‘pink’ or ‘red’ neighborhood) is in fact one of the oldest and most beautiful parts of the city with its long, winding, narrow cobbled streets and utterly charming 14th century architecture, such as the gothic Oude Kerk, or Old Church. The Red Light District simply oozes charm and one cannot help but admire the old buildings that lean at odd-angles, and the tree-enshrouded canals.

When visiting the district, however, keep in mind the following: It is strictly forbidden to take pictures of windows occupied by the prostitutes, be careful of pickpockets, travel as a group or at least as a couple, and do not buy drugs from wandering dealers or you may find yourself breaking the law.

We returned to the AmaDante for cocktail hour in the lounge followed by a Dutch dinner onboard. As this was our last night aboard, passengers gathered in the lounge after dinner to share stories, photographs, and addresses with each other. Many passengers had made good friends with others on board, and wished to keep in touch or share another cruise together in the future.

Gratuities are customary expressions of appreciation for a job well done, and two envelopes for them appeared in our cabin on the last night of our journey.  It was recommended that guests leave 3 Euros per passenger, per day for the Cruise Director, and 12 Euros per passenger, per day for the crew. Such thanks for services provided are always at the guest’s discretion of course, as are the amounts given.

Day 8. Departure began at 10 AM, and was an easy affair. AMA Waterways had arranged transportation to the airport, or taxi service for those staying in Amsterdam or going to the train station. The process was orderly, farewells were said, and suitcases were carried for passengers to their preferred mode of transportation.

In closing, it seems to me that AMA Waterways Fall Wine Cruises, to be offered again next year, may prove popular with those who wish to avoid summer crowds, experience the fall scenery along the two rivers, and enjoy learning about and partaking of some of Germany’s best wines. All this, onboard a beautiful ship that provides excellent personal service.

You could do worse than getting off your 5,000 passenger behemoth cruise ship next year and Come-Here and Do- This.

 “Raw” refers to a style of preparation in which all ingredients are raw, organic and vegan (no fish, meat, eggs or dairy), and nothing is heated above 118°F in order to retain all the healthy micro nutrients. SeaDream’s Norwegian owners, Linn and Atle Brynestad were excited by the health benefits they personally experienced while eating “raw”. After an extended stay at the Hippocrates Health Institute in West Palm Beach, Florida, the Brynestads asked the Executive Chef, Renate Waller to bring her talents to SeaDream’s galley. Renate, a “Raw Food Chef” worked with SeaDream’s Corporate Chef, Sudesh Kishore to create a special, optional menu of delicious, gourmet raw food dishes. “Switching to a high percentage of raw, living plant based foods, enables people to reclaim feeling great and being well” says Hippocrates Chef, Renate.

The Hippocrates Health Institute was created over five decades ago. Over the years, it has developed the Life Transformation Program into the definitive blueprint for transitioning to a healthier lifestyle. The Institute helps people radically change their health by teaching them how to trade nutrient-deficient, “dead” foods to a diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and plant-based proteins. The Hippocrates plan, replete with fresh sprout and vegetable juices, wheatgrass, colorful salads, nuts, seeds, and fruit, supplies the oxygen, enzymes, alkalinity, and bioelectrical charges vital to cellular and general health.

SeaDream’s reputation for providing a stellar culinary experience remains of utmost importance to the company. “The raw food menu is an added option. If you come aboard to enjoy filet mignon and double chocolate mousse, by all means it’s on the menu” said Kishore. He added “Nobody else at sea is offering this style of raw cuisine, and because we serve at most 112 guests, we can. One might assume raw food is boring or bland, but guests who chose to try it are in for a tasty surprise.”

SeaDream’s Chef shared several of the dishes being served from this optional, new raw food menu. Beverages such as Watercress Tang; a liquid mélange of watercress, Anjou pear, lime and pineapple; the Blood Apple Blaster; a blend of apple, ginger, red beet, lime juice and agave. Salad options include Asian style Cashew Curry Salad; crunchy and slightly spicy. An entrée such as Vegetable Lasagna uses pasta-like noodles made from spinach leaves and coconut meat, layered between a spicy cauliflower mash topped with a sun-dried tomato marinara.

SeaDream’s Pastry Chef is on board with raw food desserts. There is a tempting Cashew Lemon Cheese Cake with a crust made from almonds and dates and the filling’s main ingredients are cashews, lemon juice, almond milk and coconut butter. For those who prefer sugar free, we make that available too. You really can have your cake and eat it